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In fact I have seen this many times and even I am not immune.
A couple months ago I was mig welding a chassis on my lift.
I had failed to make sure the ground lead from the welder was well connected.
The welding current found a "ground loop" in the form of the #12 ground wire from the lift back...
OK just as an example you run a 10ga wire from the battery neg terminal to the engine or body and then the #2 odd cable between the neg battery terminal and the block fails, could be the shunt connections or the connection at the block etc.
You jump in and hit the starter, now all the starter...
Well I will hold that against you, the "grounding kit" is completely unnecessary and IMHO is borderline to a scam, everything in a HMMWV has a return wire and as long as the few original ground points are checks there will be no issues, in fact some of those points are disturbed while installing...
You could set it up on a bench and read the actual amps at 28V, but it would probably be best to just size the wire to the max current draw.
If you are close to the max for a given wire then just go up to the next size.
Also that chart is for copper wire, there are ALLOT of folks selling copper...
I am not sure, it could be the startup amps are higher than running amps, or based on what the input voltage is, you could see if the manufacturer has more detailed specs or contact them.
But in the end you will probably end up sizing everything for max amps.
Sorry I thought you meant you only needed a couple amps which is all I would pull from the alt.
It would be a good place to pick up switched 24V to power a relay (coil) but that part of the system is pretty much maxed out.
Run the heavy line to the battery box and fuse it there.
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