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I love it!

The 4L80 has a .75:1 4th gear, the Allison 1000 has a .61:1 6th gear. (BTW 5th is .71:1 still taller than the 4L80 in 4th) SO With the 4L80 and the companion 2.73:1 gears you would be turning about 2900RPM@75MPH VS the 2200RPM with the Allison and the 2.56 gears If you were to put the Allison in...

That is what the double overdrive Allison is for, My LMM HMMWV (2.56 gears) is turning less than 2200RPM@75MPH (my 2008 LMM 1 ton 4X4 Dually is turning 2000RPM@75MPH) 6.5L max RPM is 3200-3400RPM depending on the source, some sources put the max for the 6.2L at 3600RPM The Dmax for example is...

Again that is a bummer, sorry that happened to you!!! They are both (BT) the same height so I cannot see any real difference but for length. If you want to discuses it farther I would suggest starting a thread on the hot rod/ mod forum.

Big time bummer :( :(:(:(:(:(:(, you did change the oil and filter yes? If you decide on the 12V (major undertaking) or any other non 6.2/6.5L diesel please post in the hotrod/mod forum.

I would highly recommend doing all the maint described in the TMs, change all the fluids, the reduction hubs for example only have a few ounces of gear oil in them, neglecting those as well as other items can cost you dearly in the end and you have no history to go on so you have to start at the...

I believe he was talking about a multi fuel engine, the 6.5L has hydraulic valve lifters and there is no adjustment.

If it were me I would put 500-1000 miles on it while attending to the many other issues you will have before going back to the engine. This is assuming you have already changed all the filters and oil.

Again, I would put some HOURS under LOAD before I would do anything, you might just need to re-seat the rings after having all the oil washed off the cylinder walls. You are not going to cause any more damage.

How does it sound??? any more "knocking"? If it seems to run OK I would definitely put some hours on it first, for one thing your entire exhaust system is saturated with diesel it will take time and being run at speed to cook it all out. Sounds like you are making progress.

Welcome to the SS forum!

If the original glow plugs test OK (near zero ohms) and are not swollen I would re-use them, much of what is "out there" is junk today. If bound and determined do allot of research and try to get the best ones you can, there are threads claiming even some from reputable dealers have issues.

Probably not enough, sitting for decades is usually the problem, I would start with the one you suspect first. In all the years I have worked on Roosamaster injection systems (started in 1978 with the 5.7L "Oldsmobile" series engine) I have never seen more than one bad injector at a time. Now I...

Allot cheaper to try an injector. You me and the man on the moon can make all the assumptions we want but you will not know what the problem is until you ether discover by substitution or testing, nobody can jump in here and say if it is an injector or not, was this the same cylinder you were...

Pop in a new injector, you have allot of raw fuel in the manifolds/exhaust system it is not going to clear up right away.

The reason it runs worse with fuel is because the injector is leaking fuel into the cylinder, that cylinder fires prematurely (long before TDC) causing the engine to run rougher and the piston to knock as it is actually trying to stop the piston, it also runs "rich" because the fuel being leaked...

Or you can pop it out and have your local diesel injection shop look at it if you have one. Seco lists the same injector for both the 6.2 and 6.5L NA engine

You can open a can of worms pulling a glowplug, most say if its bad it needs to be pulled anyway, just be ready to purchase a quality extractor if only half of the glowplug comes out. You might look at the usual places for an injector, mac motors, Seco, hummer parts guy, AMG does not seem to...

I would be tempted to drop an injector in, unless you just have a diesel compression gauge with the correct adapter handy. Hopefully it is an easy one to get to.

The one towards the front of the vehicle