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So you had a code 83 and replacing the TCC solenoid did not fix your lockup issue AND you do not have a lockup issue with the TCM disconnected then the only place left to look is the harness/connectors and the TCM itself.

Have you checked all the wire harnesses involved for chaffing? Have you replaced the TCM? What were the codes after it crashed thee weeks ago?

You replaced the torque converter? the TCC is the torque converter clutch. It would be pretty rare that the trans would drop back into limp mode (2nd gear only) or not shift into 3rd and 4th and there not be any codes, make sure that you do not disconnect the batteries and erase the codes before...

So you are saying even though it will not shift you are not able to get any codes, only the twelve flashes?

That fluid can cause issues, you can replace the seal without going into the trans (get youtube certified) Also clean both sides trans and cable with contact cleaner. This would not have any effect on testing with the TCM disconnected however...

It really should not, you have some strange symptoms. What codes are you getting now, if it is not shifting into 3rd or 4th it should have some codes. Have you checked the trans end of the cable (pass through connector) for fluid? If you remove the connector from the TCM (J1) it should drive in...

All the "programming" is in the EPROM, you can try switching in your original one, if there is something wrong with it you will get a DTC-51

There is no user programming for that TCM I could be a wiring issue on #83 or the old TCM fried the solenoid The #85 could also be a wiring issue, as bad sensor or the transmission is slipping. Also check to see if there is any fluid in the main harness connector at the trans. Otherwise the...

There should not be a significant difference, you still could have other issues like TPS calibration. I would think if you were not shifting into 3rd or 4th you may have a code now, have you read the codes after test driving?

IFAIK any HMMWV TCM will work, the GM style has a chip that contains stuff like shift points so those may be a little off without swapping the chips, The PCS controller is universal

To pull power, disconnect one of the leads from the transmission circuit breaker, that pulls both the switched and unswitched power from TCM and the 12V feed to the transmission solenoids/valves. With no electrical power to the transmission, even with no wires going the the transmission the...

Did you check for a code after it messed up? If you had disconnected the batteries before you may have erased the stored code. Try to pull a code after driving it and getting the TCM warmed up, it is possible the TCM is failing, no normal code/action should cause the converter to lock up. After...

Good deal, I am curious is the light lit with the engine running?

It is possible whomever removed the light cut the wires, maybe even flush where they came out of the harness. At this point I would be looking for where the individual TPS and ESS harnesses and the brake switch wires come out of the larger harness for cut wires.

Follow the wires from the TPS, (throttle position sensor) on the right side of the injection pump, it should lead you to where it goes into a larger harness, that is where the wires for the MIL lamp should be. I have no idea about what you are seeing, might be clutch material might be nothing...

Common sense dictates the place all those wires break out of the harness should be around the rear of the left valve cover, but sometimes common sense plays no part in the building of the HMMWV

If you look at this you will see the trans light wires come out of the same harness (see the loop around the wires that the arrows are pointing to, that is a harness sheath) as the brake switch, the TPS, and the ESS break out of. The ESS and the TPS go into sheaths of there own but not the...

I do not want to seem like an alarmist but you really need a working trans light, not having one can cost you a complete rebuild when the problem could have easily been taken care of before it got out of hand. There are problems that do not even set the MIL light but do set codes, having a...

Maybe someone else can come in here and say exactly where the wires should be, I would think they would be somewhere between the left rear of the engine and the shifter but really don't know.

Look at the pages I referred you to, you can use a SMALL 24V test light OR your new trans light between the 12V positive and pin U on the TCM connector (page 140), then put a jumper from pin EDIT A to E on the J2 connector (page 60) and get the codes. IF you are POSITIVE the cables have been cut...