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That slave port assembly looks correct just based off the pic. Ground cable looks to be about the right length... Out of curiosity did the one on the machine look like someone had modified it to make the ground reach to the starter?

Unless I'm missing it, the TM's seem to be terrible as far as showing the battery and slave port cable routings, but without looking at one of mine, I believe the slave port negative goes to the back of the ground stud on the frame just behind and left of the slave port. Then another separat...

Correct! As mentioned in the original post that transducer is not meant to be a drop in replacement, but rather an affordable / available substitute. There was a time when the originals were still available in NOS form, but at an insane price of close to $500! For the sake of drilling a couple...

Sounds like your transducer is barely hanging on to what little life it has left!

Once you're satisfied with the hot start, make sure you go back and verify that the starter won't engage if you try to crank while its running. The TM will give you the specifics, but the interrupt switch is supposed to break the circuit at somewhere around 600 RPM ( IIRC ) so you can hold in...

SO lets go back to S7 for a minute. You were 99% of the way there a few days ago, but I think you got a little mixed up with the testing of S7 both hot and cold. Anyway... before you fight things any further and replace the switch, try giving it a tiny bit of adjustment outward ( unscrew ) the...

That screw in your way is the back side of the throttle stop screw. In reality you could cut it off a bit with a dremel and small cut off wheel. The piece in your way is the excess screw, not the business end of the screw. I'm confused on your S7 issue. You said you have no connection between...

So you are only having a no-crank issue while the motor is hot. and it sounds like you haven't gotten the cover off the S7 but you verified the contacts are closed, I assume you probed the leads to verify? Have you checked to see if you're getting power to the small wire on the starter solenoid...

Not sure if you tried already, but if you take the center stud out for the S7 cover you should be able to get it out. It's pretty difficult to get it out with the removed and almost impossible with it in place.

You kind of lost me on the thermal cut-out switch. That wouldn't prevent cranking, but it would cause the gen to not stay running after you let go of the start switch. The S7 starter interrupt switch under the cover near the alternator fuse will prevent cranking. Sounds like you may have more...

Before replacing the starter did you check for power getting to the starter solenoid, and are you sure the click you are hearing is the starter and not the Fuel solenoid and starter relay? Agreed the new starter is a better design, but you might want to investigate deeper to be sure the starter...

Bet you can almost Smell the diesel exhaust already! She'll run... all 002's and 003's do eventually!

take a look around for a new circuit breaker, if you can't find it I'm sure I have a used one.

So the inner piece that the cap screws onto ( with the 12 point head ) did not have a metal ring gasket around the center, that seals the cap to the body? Originally it wasn't really a flat copper washer, it was more like a metal O-ring that seals against the beveled lip on the pump body. Also...

Unfortunately there's no fool-proof way to tell if the plunger guide is broken with 100% accuracy. You can pull the center cap, delivery valve and holder off the pump and look in the center of the pump while turning the engine by hand. The plunger should be rotating at 1/2 the speed you're...

Luckily he does have an Ambac pump, but needs to be sure its free none the less! Lots of posts on here as to how to do it, but filling with acetone or seafoam, lacquer thinner, carb clean... anything like that then let sit a few days. I like to pull the delivery valve and holder out so you can...