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I am at a point that I'll take the axle apart and will start a new thread 'replacing differential lock'.

Thanks Peakbagger, I did start a ticket over a week ago, got an initial reply but silent ever since. And I agree with you, I'd rather pay some extra $$ and get the right part the first time.

There is a listing on eBay right now for the piston (#13 on Figure 139) for $25. I bought 2 and there are 4 left. Search for 4163350250 Although one could probably clean the original, for this price I save some time. The picture on the listing shows it without the packing ring (#14) does this...

the treat is a M14-1.5 for the nipple screwed into the axle and M12-1.5 for the air-compression fitting. the M12 also happen to fit a 1/4" SAE adapter, but you have to use a flat washer. The first picture shows the part as I took it out of the axle with the copper ring the side with the ring...

[Alpine44] I recommend to also add a pressure gage so you have an idea. and it allows you to check if the pressure needed the 2nd, 3rd, 4th time is decreasing... if the plastic tubing is still somewhat good from the axle, you can cut it at about 12"-18" (clear area) and use a 1/4" quick connect...

I did wiggle the wheel, since it is in the air. I have the gear in neutral, but the other wheel is on the ground and with the differential locked it would be the same, right? And you are right, it's work! I may just drive it a bit. The drainage has a M10 threat (not M10-1.5) I think M10 is the...

I just thanked tennmogger for the greas-gun tip. However today I added a pressure gage, started with air-pressure, turned off the air-line (so not to fill with extra pressure and grease) and started pumping the grease-gun. it did lock somewhere between 250-300psi. but now it's no longer...

Update: today I got the grease-nipples from Grainger. I also fabricated a small angled tool out of a nail which I used to push the piston a bit (but not sure if it actually moved). The larger opening when removing the air-intake nipple allowed using this 'L' shaped tool to be inserted. After...

here is the content of the page as PDF. It shows the piston surface - just what I saw with the camera, actually.

Found this page: http://www.oocities.org/nharrison314@rogers.com/dansunimoglockerpage.html it also shows the piston and dismantling of the U1300, but should be very similar to the U900.

Did some search on JB-80, but it's probably 'so good' it's not available in California. Found it on eBay - but it would be another week delay. Any of those at Grainger I could probably get the next day...

is there a better penetrating oil? I don't mind using other one.

using Marvell Mystery Oil - which was mentioned in other posts for this job. And fill it from the top, but it seems not much goes into it - if there was a way to 'suck' the air out at the same time. Or maybe I find a way to push it from the drain hole till it pours out from the top - but how to...

here is a picture I took yesterday from the rear drain-hole: I have till September to complete the septic system and this location is where two trenches need to go totaling about 130feet. The size of the bucket is just perfect for the job and easily goes the 5' deep. I also 'fabricated' an...

anyone knows of a mechanic in the north San Diego County area - who knows Unimogs?

Yes, I was able to drive it out. it was downhill to the exit anyways (uphill what was not working....) Right now it's parked on asphalt with the rear-right wheel in the air. Ready for the work - once I got all the parts, which may take another week to find places to buy and ship. Would I need a...

a week has passed, but still no luck getting the differential engaging. Next will be to open the axle and replace the parts. Will do the rear first. Do I need to remove the entire axle, or can I just remove the side with the differential lock? Anyone has experience in removing and opening the...

I used the SEE air, and I had first the air-line removed from the top of the axle and air is coming out and has the 106psi. For sure the inside is clogged up.

from another post I saw the importance of the drain-plug. so I removed to drain any condense-water. Well there was nothing coming out. on the rear axle I could actually spray lubricant and it eventually came out the drainage hole, and so did air when pressure was applied - right now that side is...

The main air tank has a over pressure relieve valve, That psi value would be the max I should be able to apply onto the locks, right?