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Dont have a pic handy, on an A0 they are all the way over on the left edge of the compartment, three 1" diameter discs aligned vertically in the panel, for ground, 12 and 24v panel input from the polarity box. each has a threaded hole in the center... On the A1 the panel has 4 boltheads spread...

Well all the cab electricals work to make that aux starter relay click, so they are most likley OK. Now jumping across the contacts of the aux starter relay(circled in red) should cause the starter to crank the engine as it sends +24 to the starter solenoid.

If the batts have been setting a bit, that is not a bad static voltge.

Looking at module 4, I see K11(alt excite) and K26 Neutral start. I would compare the operation of those 2 relays first with the operating truck. What do they do when you turn on main power, turn on ignition and try to start. I would expect both to energize with ignition turned on(and trans in...

The A1 was not all that different from the A0. Based on the relay count the A1R probably still isn't all that different. If you can shoot some closeup pics of the module covers so I can identify the relays I may be able to help. On a legible pic I found of module 2, I noted that relay numbers...

First check I would make is that you are getting 12V and 24V power to X1 and X2 in the PDP. Then I would insure that the same power then passes on to X3 and X4 once the main sw is turned on. The A1 did away with the dedicated crank lockout relay(k24 prevented starter engagement with oil...

Check and clean all the connections associated with the polarity protection device, as well as all your battery connections. It might be that enough current is flowing to start the power-up process but as soon as you try and pull any current thru a bad connection, the voltage falls flat and...