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I highly doubt that, and I don’t think it was done to warm the trans. A diesel at idle doesn’t put all that much heat into the cooling system. That is one of the reasons it is difficult to get an engine to warm just by itself. If heating a transmission is your goal, there are far more...

You could use a bypass type thermostat to automate the bypass mixing, but it would add restriction to the system. A full diameter bypass would not, and you could be sure it is all the way open when you dont need it... it would be easy enough to control from the cab with a cable...

There of course is also a plumbing option. You put a T in the upper radiator pipe and a pipe section across and down to a 3way bypass valve in the lower radiator line. The valve would control the percentage of water allowed to pass thru the radiator/forced to bypass the radiator...

Well you would need to provide that gap at the top and perhaps some guide rails along the front side edges of the radiator. I think I woukd want a way to tune it vis having a bunch of different covers. Perhaps a roll-up cover at the bottom that you pull up in front of the radiator along...

At those temps, Over the grill or a smaller panel slid up just in front of the intercooler. You will want something you can “tune”, like the snapped on covers with zippered panels you see on semi trucks in winter. Ideally you want to limit air cooling capacity to the point where the thermostat...

The thermostat doesn’t know what temperature it is outside And it being at the end of the hot side, it will repeatedly close the barn door after the horse has escaped. Repeated heat and cooling cycles from 180F to possibly below freezing is not conducive to long engine life. Diesels do best...

I don’t know how effective an external one would be unless you can block that big gap between radiator and intercooler at the bottom. I was thinking about one in 3 or 4 parts with some perimeter components permanently installed. of course this would be easier if they didn’t put the gladhands...