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Cool, at least if it happens again you know exactly how to look for it…

Well you need to unplug it and make sure One side had a circuit to ground and the other side a circuit to the aux relay. If you still have your test jumper on the start button you should see the same 24v you saw on the aux coil wires on one wire into that plug. then you need to see that the...

Well voltage down there means the wire is allowing a circuit from K1 to the aux relay, but remember you didnt get a path to ground from K1-87, so I would say the wire from the aux relay to ground is not making a circuit. on the older trucks they had a thermal sw in the starter that they ran the...

So could be a bad aux relay on the frame or a disconnect down there. I would look for voltage from K1 making it down there.

Thats with the relay in place? Sounds right, the relay coil is a wire so the voltage on 86 will be felt on 85 ntill the button is pressed. The voltage on 87 when energized is what is sent down to the aux relay, so you need to look for that voltage down there. You should also be able to pull...

Did you mean K1? If so thats good means all is currently working in the cab. K1 feeds 24V down to the aux start relay on the frame right behind the power steering reservoir. I would pull K1 and make sure it has 24V on i believe socket 30 to send down to the aux relay when it energizes. if...

Well if it is leaving CB21 and not making it to K1-86, you are loosing it along the path or thru the VIM. If the VIM neutral relay is cycling with the main switch, it could have a bad contact in the neutral relay… Did you get voltage over at the frequency box? Are you testing with the same...

OK well I think PX33 is larger than the other connector. If you look inside the connector the pins should have small molded labels. F1 is the 24V in for the start circuit so if you are sure power is getting thru CB21, you can pull it out and either jumper across CB21 or insert a standard...

OK, good, we know you have main trans power thru CB79 otherwise the trans wouldn’t even light up, but the trans and VIM are fed from 3 places. Do you have 24V to/thru CB21? That is the power that feeds thru the neutral relay in the VIM. You also need to make sure that there is 12V getting...

Ok, grab a volt meter, in the power panel remove relay K1 and with the main switch on, measure from K1’s pin 86 socket on the panel to the ground test point. You should see 24V. That 24V originates at CB21, passes thru the neutral start relay in the vehicle I/F box under the passenger dash...

Ok it will be 2 hours before I can steer you to the next check. You have a volt/ohm meter right?

Well did you check what I asked? Is K1 in the panel going click when you push the button? based on what is happening with K1 I can point you to some checks when I get home this evening…

Ok if K24 energizes with the oil light when you turn on the switch, does K1 in the power panel energize when you press the start button? If I recall K1 gets power from the neutral start relay in the VIM. The start button provides the path to ground to energize K1 thru the energized contacts...

I said K24, not K12…. You have a bad oil pressure sw or circuit. it controls the light and K11 and K24. K24 must energize to complete the starter circuit to energize K1 when the button is pressed. K1 in turn energizes the aux relay on the frame which energizes the start solenoid. no oil...

If I understand you correctly it runs OK when you jump the aux relay or start solenoid to crank it? What relays in the power panel go click when you turn on the ignition switch. Should be K11 and K24. Do you get an oil pressure idiot light? what year and model truck?