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Yep, AIH draw plus whatever power the truck and batteries are drawing after the crank…

ok, perhaps some of your numbers are off. 1. A starter rarely pulls its full power rating except briefly initially getting things turning, and only a fraction of that thereafter even when cold. 2. Pulling large amounts of current out of a battery throws basic AH calculations out the window...

Yes, Air Inlet Heater…

Yea and a operator seeing a “harness” go up in smoke, may be more inclined to turn it in for maintenance instead of messing with it:)

Thems fuses and holders cost good money boy…:)

Yea, he has an A0.5…

Yea y0u might get a brief(less than a second) current spike up to ~300A, but the average crank current should be down in the 150 ish area…

no, all the A1 trucks(green circuit board power panel or PDM boxes) have both 12v and 24v ignition relays located under the panel frame. your A1 has 4 bolt heads visible on the A1 panel, 12v batt, 24v batt, 12v ign and 24v ign. Myself personally I would do away with the PPD and put the diodes...

yea using a 24-12 converter mostly removes the need for the diodes. it in itself is polarity protected, so if 24v is hooked up backwards it wont output 12 anyway... On the A0, you need 12v to turn on 24v ign, so that only leaves the 24v circuits that receive batt power directly in potential...

Exactly, Most all manufactures provide polarity protection at the individual electrical modules, with diodes on their input, they simply will not flow current backwards... Do the systems in the LMTV do this? That is anyone's guess without some research and testing... LED lights wont work...

1. The A0 PPD is simply diodes and a heat-sync. the alternator does NOT go thru the PPD, it simply connects to the battery cables on the PPD 12 and 24v BATT terminals. The combined output of the ALT/BATT system(those 2 work together), passes thru the diodes to reach the main power panel. 2...