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The only time I had to reverse and take a different line was when my pumpkin bumped against a rock. No big deal though, I just backed it up and moved it over 4".
I took the m1009 out into the hills today and last Saturday. I am LOVING these axles, this is by far the best modification I've done so far. The truck drives smooth and it's 4x4 capabilities have increased immensely.
Looks nice but yes I kept the drums. I'd rather just pop for the new cables then buy a swedging tool and "customize" my own.
Don't forget to paint all your new parts.
I think the different lengths are for dually vs non dually. I'm just gonna buy the longer ones and see what happens.
Can any of you guys help me with ebrake cables? There are multiple sizes for the 14 bolt and I can't figure out which ones are correct for a m1009 with a 14 bolt axle.
Well my swap is all done and here are some things I learned during the process that haven't already been mentioned.
1. Do all the seals on both axles before installing.
2. Replace At least the wheel bearings, if not all the bearings.
3. Turn the rotors and drums while you have them apart...
Is using the factory m1008 wheels a good/bad idea? Do I need wheel spacers to use 35x12.5x16 on the factory wheels? As I'm wrapping up the axle swap I'm preparing to buy tires and I'd like to get the wheels figured out first. I'd hate to buy all that rubber only to find out the factory wheels...
I definitely would have liked 410 gears but these are cucv axles so I'm getting 456. It'll be nice when in the hills though!
And as a bonus I found an unexpected traclok in the front axle
!
Well I did some research and it looks like a lot of blazers will need a 1350/S44 conversion u joint. This would be a Spicer 5-3205X.
Its incoming from ebay and it I am wrong I will update this post for future reference.
Do you guys have any pointers on how to remove the existing spring perches on the 14b and how to choose location for the new ones?
Heres a pic of how I moved it into the carport to work on it.
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