Search results

No, I wouldn't bother replacing that capacitor. The pump should run just fine without it. It's not like there are any fancy electronics in the pump to protect, it's just a motor after all.

There are only a few DC operated things on the set. First off, since you said it happens when the switch is turned to prime run, I would start be disconnecting the fuel pumps and see if the circuit breaker stays in. If it does, then connect them one at a time until you find the culprit. If it...

David, I'm sorry that cleaning up the magnets and fixing the bare wire didn't solve your problem. One thing the tests in the TM do not check for is insulation breakdown. That is obviously what you have going on with your stator. The Ohm readings show up good, and the readings to ground show...

Bill is correct, I forgot about the recess in the center bolt. You can just back it off about 1/4" or so, just so it's free from the wheel, and push against that. Also, a correctiogn to my earlier post...the threaded holes around the center of the hub are 5/16"-24. They are fine threads not...

You actually want to pull the blower wheel off, not the flywheel. You will need a puller of sorts. It is mounted on a tapered shaft with a keyway to keep it from spinning. Take the one center bolt out of the blower wheel and theoretically it should come off just by tapping (gently tapping...

It looks like you found the culprit. You may be able to fix that problem... Obviously you are making voltage with the stator, and the tests in the TM come out good (resistance test and ground test). One time I had a small briggs engine that wouldn't fire. The magnet that passes by the coil was...

Alright, I must have gotten lost somewhere in the beginning when you were posting AC voltages in areas where you should have been reading DC volts. Because what I see in the last couple of posts makes no sense to me at all. From what you state, either the voltage regulator is not working and...

Yes, that is bad for the charging system, but it is also an indication that the charging system is working. When he removes the negative cable and the machine shuts off, that means it is not charging, so it doesn't matter in that case (mostly because the machine shuts down and won't run...LOL).

I see that in an earlier post you did re-test the stator output, and had about 33 volts (33.2 to be exact). The stator is good. I am a bit confused as to why you keep stating all of these meter readings you get at the fuse holder and at the red marked wire on the VR as being ac volts. All of...

you don't need it for the VR to operate properly, it is just there to protect it from any noise that may be induced into the system from the generator. You could probably run without it, but you may be severely shortening the life of the voltage regulator if you do

Buy it...the voltage rating is basically just the maximum voltage the capacitor will handle without breaking down. You could probably get by with a 50 volt cap, but if there are any spikes induced by the generator portion (which is why that cap is there to begin with) they could easily be over...

Just a suggestion, double check your stator output again. That would be the wire #1 and #2 you refer to above. When running you should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 33 volts or so (with one meter lead on wire 1 and one on wire 2, set for AC volts). If you have 33 volts and the fuse and...