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Naval Jelly, probably RO's rust reformer, and a number of other products that are probably based on phosphoric acid are good for penetrating pits where your abrasive can't reach and for holding off oxidation for a bit. If you don't mind the extra steps, it could be a good idea. I've just...

RustOleum red is not the old RO red. There is a 2nd RO red 'industrial' formulation that's worth looking for. They're different formulas. Neither is the orignal one. Steve

Good point. Steve

I always remember people who want what I don't have;) The trick will be remembering the face at Gilbert. I hate getting senile. I'm thinking of selling badges on lanyards to SS-ers with avatars and screen names at shows. Steve

Flatness comes with curing. It'll be flatter in 6 months than today. Also, texture counts. Part of the reason CARC looks so flat is because it's rough. That can be attained in the spraying (see the Behr post on the M35 back aways). You'll also find photos of my M105 sprayed with semigloss...

Dark colors take longer to cure than light colors, varying by mfr. Depending on the tint, I wouldn't be surprised at 2 days, even in AZ. On top of that, I think most are for more porous surfaces like wood where it soaks in vs. metal where it has to air cure. Check the label. If it's like...

Also possible that the house surfaces are more porous than the metal and absorb or wick the sufactants. Does the house observation hold true when painting over aluminum siding or perhaps vinyl? Steve

It's worth noting that I'm going for restoration on those vehicles so finish and color are important. My 105 is industrial acrylic (Ben Moore P29). The Deuce wheels, steps, etc. are industrial alkyd (Ben Moore P24). The Deuce bed is porch and floor (for a satin finish, fairly flat.) The...

All depends on what you want for the final effect. You can repaint the whatsits out of the coarse sand mix before you start to lose traction because of the play sand's coarseness, The bottom of the folded bumper step is the original military sand-in-paint. The bumper top and fender are the...

"...Has any one had any luck with putting that gripping material back on there fender tops and bumper. It's almost like a sand mixed into the paint..." Bluedeuce Yeah. Try play sand mixed in paint. In my case, a color test mix of RustOleum. Never took any photos to prove it works, but it...

One thing that I'm convinced effects the CARC oblique reflectivity and makes it 'dead flat' is the sandy texture. I think somebody said that they got that with a fast-dry spray earlier on in the thread. I know that the painter who did my 105 ended up getting it inadvertantly with the BM...

Got lost when I answered the same question in another thread. Sorry. That's the formula. Steve

It hasn't changed but lemme check. Steve

If you can get some metal or bent/scrap body parts from a shop, try your paint choice and develop your technique a bit before doing the truck. The undercarriage is a pain but mistakes are usually well-hidden. Flaws on the body are much more visible. Steve

"...I know the color scheme will horrify some of you..." Oh - not me! I seem to remember my mother having a kitchen table cloth that was very close to that. :shock::smile: Steve

"...What about the porch and patio paint that someone mentioned?? Are there any advantages to Porch and Patio paint over regular exterior Latex house paint?..." That was me. I rolled my bed floor and sides with it. No hint it wasn't sprayed. Great flow, no Floetrol. This report is since...

"... I have the BM paint code from Steve Kuhns trailer. I would like to know how the final look came out..." There are some photos back a bit but here's one we took last Sunday after building ramps for Art's Mule. The color looks a bit dark on the site. Much more 24087 in person. It'll...

That's what I thought from the shape. On my monitor, the 1st photo of it is much darker than the 2nd. Photos on here can be misleading. The proof is in the light, in person. Thanks. Steve

Is that the same headlight you had in the earlier photo? The bumper-to-hood match does look good. Steve

It's most likely alkyd. Latex/acrylic sticks best to flat. Sandblasting is always best because it'll expose rust under the paint. Otherwise I'd scuff, prime w/ rusty oxide, allow 2 -3 weeks to cure then paint. Others will likely have other ideas, but. . . Steve