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I remember way back in the day doing electronics upgrades in AAVs. There were guys from another unit rotated to our unit they knew what they were doing already and hooked the positive and negative both to 24 volts. Vaporized the negative connector pin on the unit they were using for testing...

The alts are beefy it should be ok. Is the alt making voltage now?

Make sure the 12 and 24 volt are on correctly. Something is causing the field not to flash. And verify output voltage with a digital meter. I have seen plenty of bad dash gauges.

Are you sure? Nothing on either regulator lead. Make sure you have 12 and 24 volts from the batteries at the two alterna to main terminals before you run the truck. Once the truck is running out 24 volts to the regulator positive.

Disconnect the wire that's originally there it may be shorted. Run a test wire from the 24 volt post to the regulator post. Make sure no other wires are on the regulator post at the time.

The field is not flashing you need 24 volts at the regulator positive lead for the alternator to make power. Go inside the cab to the power panel put a bolt into the 24v post left side of the panel and run a temporary wire to the regulator positive connection its the forward one and its red.

Take it apart post pics. Somewhere I have an alternator from a truck that was crashed. The alt got a bit crushed but might have a diode module or other small internal parts that are still good. Post a few pics of the dryer install if you get time. I keep meaning to do mine just hard to find time...

The alternator is modular and pieces can be replaced. I have never taken one apart though. Here is a pic of some ends I have, but they are for a different alternator. Just to give you an idea.

If the regulator is swapped with a good one and the alternator will not excite and produce voltage with a good ground strap and 24 volts at the regulator positive post then the alt is probably bad. You could look at the pins on the connector from alt to regulator. Could be a bent pin or...

It's not a big issue you will work it out I wouldn't worry about it. 24 from the fuse panel to the regulator 24v lead should excite it. Engine running of course. Don't rely on the dash volt meter use a digital one to verify everything. And while you are at it check the alt ground strap for...

I'm still thinking you don't have a good 24 volts to the 24 volt lead on the regulator. Without this the alternator will not excite and just spin without making voltage.

If you have 24 volts from the fuel solenoid positive lead to the positive lead on the regulator and the alt still won't make voltage then the regulator may be bad. Measure make sure you have 24v at the regulator. Nothing should be connected to the AC lead. Measure the 12/24 at the alt output...

The AC lead is actually and alternating current output from the alternator. Can be used to drive a tach or other small accessory. No idea why it was ever connected to begin with. Some newer A1 trucks use the lead with a newer gen polarity protection smart box behind the cab.

Disconnect both leads to the regulator. Tape up and abandon them. Take the outer connection on your fuel solenoid and run it around the engine to the positive 24 volt lead on the alt regulator.