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I used a 12v bench supply to test it. Should retract. It connects to the top left module in the control box. There is a marked power and ground connections on that module. Measure with meter see if the module has power in run position.

Should retract with the switch in run position. You can bench test the solenoid with a power supply. I have found bad crimps in the control box multiple times. Never had a bad solenoid. Make sure the emergency stop is pulled out.

Actuator is probably good. Make sure breaker on back of control box inside engine bay is on. Check and see if modules in control box have power in run position.

Right side of the pump area is a spring lever. You should be able to move it by hand. One of the injection pumps could be stuck down binding up the fuel rail. If the rail does not come left then no fuel can be pumped to the injectors. Figure out why the rail won't move.

Stick your finger in the hole feel if the fuel rail moves. Did you prime the gen? Do you have fresh fuel at the pump? There is a bolt on the right side of the fuel lines coming out of the ip that you loosen to prime. You may have to prime it a few times to get all the air out. When you first got...

If you primed it and there is fuel at the pumps then the fuel rail is probably not opening. Take the solenoid out and see if it runs.

I bought a big lot of cables I am supposed to have some good used ones coming in. Have to wait and see if they are the right ones and the condition though.

I have more of the generators than the output cables unfortunately.

Looks like this with around 16ft of cable. Very hard item to find.

Yes. I will swap you the correct output cable for the ac unit

Use the front panel 60a connector.

This 3 phase setup has 3 120v legs. The panel meter shows the 3 voltages.

Did you drain the fuel tank put fresh fuel and filters in it. And replace any cracked fuel lines? They usually start easy. Use the 3 120v legs each to neutral. Prob good for 45 amps per.

The ac is neat. But its almost overwhelming unless you have a large area to cool. It would make your cabin into a wind tunnel. The generator part itself is pretty compact it comes off the trailer easily. Use the 3 120v legs each to neutral just balance the load and you should be fine for cabin use.

Post on cl looking for someone to refill. If its an r407c unit I would buy it if the price was right. Takes a double pallet to move via freight.

There is cheaper stuff called nu22. Would have to be vac'd down and loaded by an ac guy with a superheat meter the weight is a bit different I believe. If you had r22 you could vac it and just load by weight listed on the plate.

All the refrig is removed. You need to vac it down for a few hours, see if it holds the vac and then recharge per data plate. Was it a stuck injection pump? The heater coils you would prob have to get from Applied. The heat is minimal at best when it works I dont think its worth spending any...

If the fuel rail will not release its possible one of the mechanical injection pumps is stuck down a bit. This can make it tough to get the pump bank out also. Sometimes you can pull the upper lines and fill each one with break free to soak it free. You may be able to peek in the solenoid hole...

When the fuel solenoid is out can you stick your finger in and feel the rack move?