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Any words of wisdom about balancing the front drive shaft? Is that something that should be done?
Also, I was looking around under the truck for anything loose and found this cable with a 4 pin connector in the area by the accelerator pedal.
Two of the cables are marked 762A and 762B (the...
Excellent! I ordered one.
Excellent! I ordered it. I did more research about removing the drive shaft and the following things came up (I knew there has to be more than just unscrew it and put it back):
1. Mark where the pinion nut is before removing it and use the same position when...
Yes, I am still hunting for anything else lose, but the hood is not, it's not cracked either, its solid on, very tight! Actually I am thinking to take out the hood and drive without it, maybe I can see better what's going in, I will add some pictures of the radiator welding that is broken...
OK. Yes, I can get the outer rim piece out. but the inner one even the tire shop had a hard time with it, maybe because the older tires were set in for so many years.
How does turning just the outer piece might help? That doesn't change the tire position in relationship with the inner rim...
Ok, it is clear, I just wanted to make sure I understood everything you said, the way you meant it,
This method takes me back to a thought I had earlier when you said to rotate the rim 90 or 180 degrees.
I do have a problematic tire that's off the car because was vibrating worse than others...
Thanks! It's not exactly shimming, which I am familiar with from other cars where the steering moves side to side when it's not held. It is more like a shacking that goes to the whole body, the doors are shacking, the windows, but those are somewhat loose also, and some of the shaking comes...
Ok, I like the idea of having the engine turn the wheel. Just to make sure I get this right and don't have the truck run thru the wall lol...
so if I lift that wheel and block/ secure the other three wheels, and have the transmission in 1 (I presume the TC stays in H?), it will turn only the...
Since the beginning I had this light vibration in the front end around 70mph and higher and I attributed it to the old tires.
The vibration is visible via the hood air lift hook, which moves side to side about 1/4" (about 1/8" or so on each side), while the hood appears static, so it looks like...
That's great info, just like when you said that the nut behind the side panel was reachable and I was planning to remove the bracket instead...but then based on your info I did reach the nut...thank you!
You are correct! There are two vents on the side towards the top that leak when the tank is filled up and it looks like there is also some activity at the top panel too.
I removed the tunnel evaporator not knowing how small the top access cover was, thought I could get replace the leaking...
Maybe I am overcomplicating things in my mind thinking if there could be any alignment issues after removing and reinstalling the DS,?
Usually the less parts are being removed, there are less potential issues to have, but it doesn't sound like removing the DS is a big deal.
Thanks!
I finally got around to remove the tunnel evaporator and found the small access panel under it…and another bucket of sand, which I vacuumed :)
There is not a lot of room to work on the top of the fuel tank through that small opening:
Could the fuel tank be dropped without removing the rear...
It sounds like excellent advice…yoke contraction vs sleeve dilation…thank you!
EDIT: I saw there is a differential seal tool, but it’s made out of plastic and it breaks easily? Is there something specific you used to install the seal?
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