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and as I said, most of these people are looking at taking their home, on the road.. Not making a vehicle, into a home. They're STUCK on 'we need 110v'... since EVERYTHING runs off 110v in modern RVs.... because they assume they're gonna be at a park with power or something. Very different setup...

Whole house systems fall under the multi-battery and multi-KW setup I mentioned before. A mobile setup for 12V is a COMPLETELY different animal than a 24 or 48V setup for home, where 99% of your electricity use is through an inverter and 110V. A lot of these setups are relying on 110V...

When putting up panels, you can run 96V of panels in series if you have a charge controller that can handle it. The advantage is, smaller gauge wires. No real advantage going from 12V to 24V or 48V unless you're dealing with MASSIVE battery systems in multi-KW range with high draw, then the...

No doubt 24V was to be able to charge from the vehicle's alternator, or to jump the vehicle using the house batteries as a spare set, essentially. A good solar system makes that not needed, HOWEVER.........you have options Option 1 is to put a small solar panel dedicated for the starter...

You're adding more points of failure. More switches = more to go wrong. Also, you need isolate shore power and gen so you're not backfeeding the shore plug...unless you intend to do that... A simple 4 position (Inverter, generator, shore power, off) would make the most sense, IMO. Those...

Or, if you are running an inverter, and want REALLY simple... https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Positions-Terminals-Changeover-Control/dp/B01G9VBZ7U/

Hopefully this clears things up.

Your 120V generator and 120V shore power should be the same circuits. You'll have a switch that cuts from shore power to genset when either the gen or shore power is connected. Don't make things too complicated... Your 120V side should have a battery charger that charges the 12V side when...