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Yep, that and where the SEE came from. Being that mine lived near Tacoma, Washington, it even had moss growing on it in places. And peakbagger, I also bought slightly larger snap ring pliers afterwards, just in case.

You have no idea how tempting it is to say "I could've told you that.". And maybe I did tell you, in a roundabout way, that it wouldn't. Anyway, if you're driving the pin out far enough to clear the blockage, why not pull it all the way out, clean everything up, lube things, and slap it back...

Wow! Talk about bad luck. I must admit that while I thought about the penetrant catching fire if subjected to heat, I would've never guessed that the pressure buildup could spit out a Zerk fitting. Makes sense, though. I'm bad about using eye protection, despite numerous visits to the doctor for...

I think it would've taken a 4-foot cheater pipe on the grease gun to get anything into the (non-existent) space between the pin and bushing in this case. But there are three Zerks on the parts SEE's backhoe that won't take grease. Guess I should practice on them.

It's supposedly a model 35C, or when installed on a SEE, an M35C. From what I've found, it's basically a 580B or 580C. Forgot to ask what model it was when looking at a 580-something that had basic flat stock links (and no spacer) instead of the cast ones.

If the Zerk fittings could be inset in the links, they'd have a chance to survive. Not that it would be hard to make that happen, but I think that the factory left any lubrication points out of this area for a reason. Yes, I added a Zerk to the sleeve I made, but that wasn't to provide grease to...

Peakbagger, nothing to it. Okay, it did require patience. And advice from SS members. And some luck. And ordering a new pin, just so I wouldn't need it. But if I were you I would start the process now, by removing the sleeve. One large and one smaller chisel was all it took, once it was turned...

Thanks, Tony. I could point out that the nut had to be dressed as it developed some sharp ridges from the impact. And that by dumb luck it sticks out exactly as much as the bucket is wide, which is one reason I left it on there. Installing the "new" narrow bucket wasn't as bad as I'd thought...

Done. And no more chance of moisture messing things up again.

The thought of using rotational force rather than lateral wouldn't go away. Even eyeballed a 2-3/8" wrench when returning the borrowed puller, figuring that moving the wrench with the bucket's hydraulics might work. Nah, not about to risk damaging a borrowed wrench. Looked around for a...

Indeed, but I don't think I have a suitably sized bolt. Besides, I'd prefer to weld the end of the pin to the ID of a nut. Then, when my crappy weld breaks, I can weld on the backside, too.

That nut welding idea sounded good until I realized that I don't have a 2-3/8" impact socket. It would've been the perfect nut, too, fitting fine over the tapered end of the pin, and already sliced in half (needed to make a spacer for a gooseneck trailer ball). New pin not not, it would be easy...

I hate being a quitter. Borrowed a better puller today, and used the air chisel (with appropriate flat bits) in an effort to rattle things loose, but no luck. As seen in the photo, at the link that now can be moved, rust colored residue is flowing out with each application of the 50/50 A/A mix...

Tony, I came across an article where some outfit had tested the more common penetrants, and also the ATF/acetone mix. That mix scored so much better than even the best of the best known penetrating oils that it wasn't funny. That was probably 10 or 15 years ago, but I never did get around to...

Thanks for that good advice, Ron. Although now it looks like that pin could be removed without any heat. No, I'm not betting on it, but after following Migginsbros' suggestion and removing the sleeve it appears feasible. Predictably, there was a fair amount of crud in there, but surprisingly the...

The spacer is moving freely, although at first it was stuck, too. Removing it may very well be a good idea as it would allow cleaning the pin in that area between the links before trying to get the pin out, like you guys did. Making a replacement from tubing is easy enough. Thanks for that tip...

Okay, one link down, one to go. It can now be rotated by hand, but barely. Now for the harder part; getting the second link freed up. I'll probably try reassembling it all, then immobilizing the pin and use the backhoe to move the link relative to the pin. How to make the pin stop turning? Weld...

I wouldn't call the pin damaged. The center indentation in the one end is now larger from the cone on the puller, and the longer, tapered end of the pin is deformed from (mostly) beating on it and from the puller. So far today, I took a chance and drove out the pin at the upper end of one link...

Thanks for the info, Eddie. I did indeed get the safety glasses out towards the end yesterday, fearing that the puller would come unglued. Good point on using a rosebud...but finding it may not be as easy as getting the trapped oxy acetylene set out in the open. I really do need to sort stuff...

Thanks, good to hear that. Heat it is then...unless the ATF/acetone has done its thing over night.