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Okay, it's looking better for the Summer SEE. Checked the strainer and there was very little black crap in the bowl. Pulled the drain plug on the tank, and while the hollow part of the plug was full of crap, that was about it - no noticeable debris in the fuel that came out. Looks like Bio-Bor...

Matt at Bel-Metric knows which ones we need for SEEs.

I'd think the filters did their job and kept the crap out of the injection pump. The fungus/bacteria is probably all throughout the system, but when even modern and much more finicky pumps can tolerate that, I don't think it's an issue on a SEE. The strainer's mesh can easily be cleaned with...

Well, a biocide won't clean it per se, but kill the fungus that creates the poop which is what we see. In my case it was partially like sand, partially like a spray-on bed liner. It took quite a few cleanings of the strainer, after having cleaned the tank out best I could with it in place.

These days my guess is that it's fungus/bacteria crap, literally. Try a biocide of your liking and see what happens. Worst case, you won't get any fungus in there. I tried to fight that war for a long time without using chemicals (other than normal additives) and lost.

It could very well be a pure coincidence, but either the crap in the tank has finally gotten flushed out/caught in the strainer, or the BioBor did its job. Ran the backhoe for an hour plus today, and when checking the strainer there was very little crud in it. Just like the time before. If...

Hey, until my back lets me work effectively again, I might as well read up on the subject - and pester you by email.

I was afraid you'd say that. Bad fuel doesn't make sense to me, either, as the water should go to the bottom. One thing to try could be a hefty dose of an additive that absorbs water. Although, the rust that's already there is still a problem. And speaking of crud in the tank, the sand (?) I...

Yikes! I'd give that tank's interior a bath in N-Terpinal (or one of the now common brands, such as Evapo-Rust - which is probably an N-Terpinal product anyway). Then you'll have to figure out where all that moisture comes from. I'd think it has to be condensation.

Ah, I guess I misunderstood you then. You didn't bend the bars, you straightened them a bit, right? I didn't dare drive the SHEE with bent bars, not knowing what the effectively shorter wheelbase would do the driveshaft, transfer case, and U-joints. After straightening them, I put them in the...

Would the adjustments not allow centering the axle, or did you bend the bars to get it done quicker?

Congratulations on the simple fix. That I can see being a joy - to then drive 50-55 mph, not so much.

It's definitely not a coating that is intentional. It appears to be leftovers of the (whatever) fuel that was in the tank, and covered only the bottom 20%, or so, of the tank. And if normal additives can loosen it up, maybe biodiesel would do it more effectively? It'd be nice to get that crud...

To put things in perspective, here's a normal tank. A bit concave, even. Then there's the one I'd like to be able to remove.Actually, access to the hoses on the sending unit looks better in the photo than it is in reality. I thought my pressurization was largely responsible for this tank's...

Maybe biodiesel would be the simple solution? I suspect that my use of additives is what loosened up the previously largely solidified crud. Yes, there was a lot of loose stuff in there from the beginning, most of which I managed to flush out, but now the part that looked like spray-on bedliner...

If you're correct, alpine44 (which I hope you're not), and that crud is indeed bacteria rather than leftovers of JP8 and consequent chemical reactions, I have to start with a chemical warfare approach. Since the forward bracket for the tank is easily removed, and the straps have been loosened...

Dang, I didn't know there was clear hose available. But it figures...now that I just ordered more black hose. In reality, I think any hose with the correct ID that is resistant to diesel and has at least some tolerance for heat, would work. After all there's no pressure, positive or negative, to...

There's a check valve in one of the banjo bolts that I have yet to mess with, which could be part of that problem. But when you say it needs priming, do you prime only or also bleed it? I've found the SHEE to be very tolerant when it comes to air in the system. It'll start and run - run crappy...

Does it need to be primed after sitting for a while, or do you just do it? I don't think I ever had to prime them even if they've been sitting for months. Either way, now I feel that fixing air leaks is easy. Other than installing new hose on the barbed fittings (using a hair dryer to heat the...

Today I learned several things while spending a few hours trying to clean out the tank. One is that the (formerly) parts SEE really is a SHEE. Since this particular tank won't come out easily, the cleaning consisted of draining, scraping, wiping, and scrubbing. This was repeated three times...