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Yes it should work with a jumper to the solenoid. You may have more than just a shorted wire problem. The switch could be defective, or the ground on the other side of the switch is not connected well etc.

Intermission I happened across this, all I can say is whomever built it is a man after my own heart...

I don't think it's anything to be concerned about. You could try some light sandpaper on the test leads to clean off any oxidation buildup.

Actually I don't think there is anything wrong with your tester. Touch the test leads together and see what kind of difference the readings are. If they are more accurate then the variation you see may be a clue that there is a conductor/wire touching GND somewhere. This is typical when the...

Been there before. It's when more than one seemigly impossible sepetate problems occur that the head scratching really begins!

This is the comment that leads me to believe it may not be a shorted wire inside the column. Unless the short was taken away at the same time wire 25 was removed from the horn switch. Thorough investgation of the wire 25 insulation may reveal whether or not a short is occuring.

His mentioning that disconnecting wire 25 from the horn switch stops the horns from sounding is what leads me to believe the switch is providing GND when it shouldn't be.

Correct, however he says wasnt sure whether or not a jumper was in place which would cause the horns to sound. That is what I wanted him to confirm. Now that he has explained removing GND from the horn switch stops the horns, it's obvious there is contact through the switch when there shouldn't be.

If this is the case then the horn switch is providing GND to the solenoid when not being pressed. Figure out why this is happening or get a switch that doesn't do this.

Power ia always supplied to the solenoid from wire 26 as you mentioned. GND is supplied to the solenoid through wire 25 when the horn switch is pressed as you mentioned. Wire 25A is tied to GND, has a reversed polarity diode, and connects to wire 25. The reverse polarity diode should not...

Lol. Good idea, best of luck.

A jumper across the diode will cause the horn to sound. I would remove any jumper and disconnect 25A at it's ground point. Then see if that stops the horn from sounding.

Did you have the GND disconnected without the jumper wire in place?

Remove wire 25A from where it connects to GND. Does that stop the horn from sounding?

Exactly what I am thinking at this point. Here is how to tell if it's not an electrical problem...start up, build air, horns are blowing, turn ignition to off and turn off battery. If they are still blowing then they are getting air through the solenoid valve when they shouldn't be.

If the fusable link you mention is in wire#25A which leads to GND jumping it will cause the horn to sound. This is really a diode and if removing the jumper and diode causes the horn to stop, then the diode is bad.

Not sure the charged horn solenoid would discharge enough amperage to spike the entire electrical system including the battries damaging other components, however I'm far from an expert. A continuity check across the diode to see if it's shorted may be a safer way to test it.

Bypassing it will cause the horn to sound as you would be applying GND to the solenoid which is what the horn switch does. Removing the diode is the way to troubleshoot it. If the horn deactivates with the diode removed then the diode is bad(shorted). As was mentioned the diodes purpose is to...

There are two wires connected to the horn solenoid. -Wire #26 should read +24V when measured to GND at all times (battery & ignition ON). If it does not then check the circuit breaker next to the air governor on the firewall for open circuit. If open then replace it. -Wire #25 should read...