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Just be sure to maintain an ample standoff so that mud, debris, etc can't collect

I didn't even bother to trim mine. It only takes a minute to remove the covers and I really can't say that I've ever had to access the valve stem or CTIS assembly. They were thrown away in the field, I hear. Motor pool didn't want to mess with them. You could find them at auction for $80 a...

Measuring on a spare in the garage gets me the same 17.5" but again, just using a tape. And again, you really need to have one of these to look at or the CAD files. The stand-off bolts are counter-sunk into the face One section of the inside wall is cut out to allow for the air lines There...

Sure, but as I said up thread...this is *not* enough info to do a die. You need several additional dimensions to make the cover. The only important number that you requested in the center-to-center of the standoff bolt locations. You *absolutely* should double check this by simply measuring...

Too thick to be spun. These are stamped...

Well, the four holes for the stand offs are wheel bolts. You're going to need a few more dimensions than that, though (unless you were to just be cutting flat discs). You need cover depth, angles inboard and outboard where it folds down back into the rim, the counter-sink at the stand off...

I've been told that mud was a huge pita with the wheel covers (but I've yet to get in anything but sand with them). IMO, a flat "ring" with openings around the edge, wide open in the center, and ample stand-off won't hold much if any mud. Remember, these only have to cover the air hoses and...

Agreed. A small piece of tube that butts up against protector is the ideal. You could simply slip a sleeve over the coupling or just tack a small peice of tube to the outboard end of the coupling. I looked all over for a round tube that was threaded 5/8 inside but couldn't locate anything...

Yep, exactly what I'm talking about. Thanks for the better image.

Exactly Here's an OEM bolt (really just a hollow threaded tube) next to the civilian solution (thread coupler and a bolt).

Sure. I'm just saying that a cosmetic solution is simple. It's when you go to the heavy steel that it requires the heavy die to stamp these out. The cheep/easy/fast solution for physically protecting the CTIS is to simply get one of the *hundreds* of manufacturers (or anyone with a CNC...

Something like that could be satisfied with a fiberglass wheel cover (or thin steel, alum, etc). It would be simple to make a more "cosmetic" cover so to speak (that wouldn't be of much value off road or rock crawling).

We have a guy on the FB group that is in prototype with his first run. They aren't OEM design, but they are modern rock guards as seen on rock crawlers, sand cars, etc. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1607576859556624/ Someone on here was looking at making some out of composite/carbon...