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Great info! Thank you for those part numbers!

Could you post a picture of the end of the big connector or tell me how many pins it has? It looks like those are called Amphenol connectors and readily available! Thank you for the info! The length of that will help me figure out how much wire to order. I plan on doing one harness at a time...

Could you measure the length of that harness and let me know? I am going to build my own, but don't want to pull the old one out of my truck just yet. How much did you end up paying for that if you don't mind saying?

Good find!!!

Can you post some of the metal tag numbers that are grouped together?

I don't see any junk. Is that a muffler you got too?

Doesn't seem right does it. I guess a guy has got to eat though.

I have done that and it is why my current muffler is hollow. I had to have the end welded back on. Where is the hole supposed to be to vent the gas?

You might visit with m1010plowboy. I think he was working on having some new mufflers made. Not sure where he is at on that right now.

Found one. PM sent. It would be neat to find out if this is something commonly available at the part store so we could add it to our parts list.

I'm not sure. I'll go look in my parts stash later today and let you know if I have an extra old one.

I adjusted mine with the wheels on after I had assembled everything. Just jacked up one axle at a time and both wheels turned freely. Worked well for me. I am pretty sure this was the issue with my new wheel cylinder leaking problem a while back. The master cylinder that was on the truck had...

That is my understanding as well. The master cylinder I am replacing on my truck had a check valve in it. One off of a parts truck did not have one. The airpak does have a check valve and it was the seal in front of that, that was bad on mine. Not sure if it is because of doubled up check...

Looks identical to what I have. Are you going to take the check valve out of it?

The internals are identical except for the valve on the back side of the air canister and the inside of the power piston. The G749 airpak does not have the valve on the back of the canister and the power piston from the 5 ton will thread right into where the G749 airpak one goes.

The piston you have that goes in the canister looks exactly like what is in the M54/M809 airpak. I only know this because I pulled one apart to compare to the G749 airpak and to get the power piston. I wonder if you have the 5 ton power piston in there too? If so, you would be all set up to use...

There is an airpak rebuild thread over in the M35 section and they recommend using Super Lube Synthetic Grease during assembly. I will be using that and either air tool oil or hydraulic jack oil in the part SturmTyger mentioned. Someone mentioned that Bendix told them to use Permatex Hydraulic...

Depends on what condition your seals are in I suppose. The internals of your airpak look different than mine. Mine has a big piston looking piece that goes inside the air canister. You can see it in the background upper left of the top picture of my last post. I spoke with Memphis Equipment a...

I think you have corrosion inside your air canister like this. (I was not able to reuse this canister.) Here is the lip that fits inside the canister. (These are the parts I scrounged to make a good airpak.) Take a dead blow hammer and knock the fire out of the lip of the canister after...

m1010plowboy sent it to me. No effort on my part except for a holler for help.