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OK I've done the wire clean up, and ready for the next step..[thumbzup] New setup works GREAT!!! After changing the ground wire around as you stated, my "wait" light and other dash light are working like they should...:-P

Yesterday, I measured the coil resistance and got 3.4 ohms, then I rechecked the relay with another ohm meter this evening, and it checked 9 ohms.

haven't measure the resistance yet, I'll let you know what I get...

So, doghead you think I'm good to go with the relay I've got?

1stSarge, Thanks for the info, I’m new at the CUCV world, and trying to learn as I go along. I got this relay off of EBay and it suppose to be a military surplus item. I may just go and get a ST85 to be on the safe side.. Thanks, Uncle Sam

Right now... I'm in the middle of trying to remove the right fender auaand BOY!!! what a job it is..... looks like I've got to cut almost all the bolts off...:shock:

Waiting on my GP Module, (should be in anyday) before I do anything more on the wiring, thought I'd do all that at the same time. And I'm hunting some #8 red wire. I'll get back to ya, when I get that done

Thanks for the info, you guys make it a whole lot easier for dummies like me...[thumbzup]

doghead, On teh GP relayy, there is no continuty between either of the 2 small studs, to the mount, but there is continuty between the 2 small studs, is this the way it should be? Also I'm wanting to add a mechanical water temp gauge. The question I have is does the GP Module use the front...

This is the new GP relay I got to put on, is it the correct one for CUCV?

Thanks doghead, I've the correct relay, that I'm going to change before I replace the GP Module. BTW I ordered a new GP Module from CUCV Eletric, on the 28th of Aug, and have not received it yet, does it always take awhile to get it from them? And thanks warthog, I'd plan on keeping the GP...

OK, I cleaned the terminal harness, all the contacts look good, I marked in the photos which terminal the cut wire goes to. I found where the other red wires go to, they go to the Harness wiring block just bove the GP relay, and they check 12V, and the spliced red wire that runs through the...

With the 12v relay setup...That it does as I understand it, puts a big load on just one battery.. :shock: I not sure,, I think I want to setup the relay back to the 24v like orginal. But still not sure. That's the way they bulit it, so would think it works better that way...:confused: Well off...

Will Do!!:grd: But I'm wanting to do away with the GP manual switch, I've ordered the GP Module from CUCV Eletric but it hadn't come in yet. I got the firewall terminal block and I've got to pick up some Electrical Contact Cleaner, I'll post pix of it today and show what terminal the cut...

:funny:

Good...Yes..& Yes

When you ask if mine was 12 or 24 volt I was thinking starter and the starter is 24v. But after looking at some of doghead attachments of setting up GP relay for 12v, looks like my GP relay is 12v, with a manual GP relay button. What I'm wanting to do is repair (replace) the GP module so that...

I updated the photos with new info should make it easier to see, about where the wires are connected and where there going to. I didn't get a chance to check about the starter relay. I hope that the new info helps track down the source of the cut wire. Looking at your first picture again...

1st reply…. 1st No, it has not been converted to 12v it’s still 24v. 2nd..Batteries are connected for 24v, voltage reads at positive terminal board 24v 3rd not sure about the starter relay, I’d have to check this evening. 4th The cut wire….in your first picture it’s the same wire that...

Thanks Warthog, The red wires that are through the firewall, one is going to the engine wiring harness block on firewall just above the GP relay (always HOT), the other one that is spliced (that someone added jumper wire to, not OE) is connected to the top of the fuse box inside,(also always...