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For those that order the alternator rebuild kits from ASP Wholresale, I have noticed that they are including a different internal capacitor. http://www.aspwholesale.com/index.ph...ewCat&catId=47 They are shipping the kit with the 46-1106 1.5mF rectangular unit The CUCV alternators need the...

Closing thread to questions. If you have something that needs to be added, let me know.

Generator Hookups

As it has been said, makes no difference as to which terminal the 12v power is taken from. My "theory" as to the way GM wired it is this: To make the system 24v, GM added the "dogbone" between the batteries. That cost XX number of pennies. The truck still needed 12v so they had to draw power...

Also the resistor on your voltmeter could be fried. Without it , no workie.

ASP Wholesale has many items. Look for parts for an AC Delco 27SI type 100 alternator Just the insulator - http://www.aspwholesale.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=7033 - $0.14 Or a kit - http://www.aspwholesale.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=5872 - $10.66 You may be able to find...

They couldn't put everything on each diagram. Diagram E/F-9 has the complete circuit for GEN2 and most of GEN1. Sometimes you have to look at many diagrams to "see" everything. :wink: Yep you have found one of the flaws in the diagrams. The complete circuit for GEN1 is not shown on any...

That terminal is only used on GEN1. It is the feed for the tach buffer. Only used with the STE/ICE diagnostic system. GEN2 would have a rubber cap on it from the factory. The cap has been lost on most trucks over the years. The red plastic piece needs to be replaced. Only way to do that is to...

The voltmeter on the CUCV is actually a 12v version. There is a 300ohm resistor added to the back on the meter to make it work as a 24v unit. This resistor is the white flat ceramic unit. I don't know if anyone ever found a replacement, but many members has built their own with Radio Shack...

The GEN2 relay and the Voltmeter relay look identical. They are mounted to the bracket along with the starter relay. They could be in either hole. The wiring colors are the same. So you just have to do some testing and maybe switching of the relays. Sorry. Might be a good idea to label which...

The thin red circle is a leftover from another project. I use what I have handy... :wink:

The stud in not suppost to turn. If it shorts to the case then fireworks will follow. That will be a direct short. Time to take your alternator apart and rebuild it.

The orange wire is only used for the STE/ICE diagnostic system. Not needed. The plug DOES need to be clean and make good contact for the alternator to work. You can replace it for under $5. Disconnect your batteries before replacing it. The red lead is live with 24v. Sparks can fly.

Voltage regulator

http://www.aspwholesale.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=5137 posted in the Wiki and FAQ

We tried to help that guy here. It was a failed attempt. Cooked his system. CUCV Electric is a member here. He has stopped selling anything until he works thru some issues.

Rectifier, voltage regulator or trio-diode I would lean towards the diode

Here is the diagram with the GEN2 exciter wire.I changed the wire color to green to see it better. First thing to do is check the very bottom 24v fuse. If it is bad GEN2 won't work. And the GEN2 relay must be working. Current flow is : fuse, GEN2 bulb, relay, diode, firewall and then the...

I really good with the CUCv wiring. Without knowing how the 12v conversion was performed, I have no idea where to tell you to start except to do the following: A) Charge and loadtest your batteries. Just help another guy with his truck and a battery died overnight. B) Check for output voltage...

For other users, the TM 9-2320-289-34 technical manual has a step-by-step procedure for rebuilding the alternator. It even has pictures. While the ASP picture that was linked is a good reference, it is NOT a picture of the isolated ground alternators that we are dealing with.