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Yup that was the 1st thing I had checked in accordance with the Troubleshooting TM. Going to pull the starter and have it checked out by a local shop here cause that's the last link in the chain.

It did help sort of, just matched up the wires to their respective numbers and how the connector from the start plugged into the other receiver. And I finally understood how to bypass the switch, which I tried to no avail and pulling the starter tomorrow to get it checked out. Now the only new...

Just a quick question, on the back of the switch, which slots do wire 127 and 174 go to? The wiring diagram shows 74 and 74A going to B & D, and that's throwing me for a loop right now.

118, 119, 127, 174 are the wire numbers.

I have read through that thread, how do i specifically test that the twist switch is bad (as in where to put the connectors from the multimeter and what voltage/amps/resistance should I see)? The whole bypassing the switch is still a bit confusing aswell, if someone can point me as to which...

I didnt mention but this is an '88 truck, so the 4 pin style in the rear of the switch. I would use the 2 prongs that protrude to jump-start the truck correct? Also, after i disconnected the starter switch, the rear of it came off and I've attached them what looks like some sort of overload...

Im not familiar with jumping the switch, could you please explain? And the relay is new. Viejo, the terminals on the battery are still good and clean, get the low air buzzer and good volts to the starter relay.

Gents, let me tell the tale to set the current scenario that presents itself to me right now. My deuce was bought and didn't run at the time. Well got everything buttoned up and went to start it for the 1st time, sparks shot out from the battery compartment but the engine did turn over. Closer...