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Thanks, I like to help out, it is nice to see things get fixed and driving again. Talking is easier than typing, PM me and we can connect via phone if you need help. I looked, no failure analysis book for bearings/cylinders, reuse guidelines, musta gave that one to one of the guys when I left. I...

Look at 3, see in the picture how the liner is wavy and 4 is smooth? It starts just below the ring reversal area.

There is some srt of sealant on the deck in your pictures, I am color blind, but it looks like it could be copper coat, a spray on copper coating, I think Permatex makes it. Whatever, it shouldn't be there. The fire ring is on the liner, about half way between the outer edge and the raised...

Use a small wire brush to clean the deck around the liners so you don't f-up the fire ring. Clean and dry, that does not mean shiny, stained blocks are normal.

The head gaskets do not seal on the deck. They only seal at the liner, the thin bead around it, BE CAREFUL when cleaning the block so you do not remove/knick the fire ring....and at the coolant grommets...the little white rings that are stuck to the deck, and the oil passage rubbers. See those...

Use a propane torch to lightly heat the pistons instead of freezing the pin, water from condensation can attack the upper wrist pin bushing, BC rods work well in SC engines, they have a much smaller failure rate and with the oil hole moved off center, better oiling. Trouble shoot it first.....

Unknown on the bearing size, but if/when you drop the pan, look on the #1 rod counterweight. IF it is not torn apart, do like you said and drop the pan, use a cooling system pressurizing tool and put 15 or so PSI on it and watch where the drips come from

I read thru this, saw no troubleshooting. A freeze plug in the top of the head will but coolant in the oil, a fast easy fix. If it is apart, well, guess you better check things over very carefully or you Will be doing something over again. How far torn down is it?