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I should also add that I checked everything with my laser light tach, reading off the blancer, and it is as close as you will get with a factory tach.

Here are some photos detailing where I needed to cut the stock dash, and how the unit is wired up. You will need to purchase a tachometer adapter from Widget Man. They can be found on E Bay under CUSTOM-PROGRAMMED-TACH-ADAPTER The unit will need a ratio of 1 : 5.33, with a 12 Volt output...

Got it all working https://youtu.be/UReBOK6N6EQ

Yes, but it's not finished yet. It works as it should with my first box, but it read off by a couple hundred rpms. I had a custom ratio box made, but there was a mistake in the firmware with the blanking time, so it would go to half speed after 1700 rpm. https://youtu.be/7JGEcP-wDnA. You can...

Really no need to go away from the alternator now that I have figured out the correct ratio and found an adapter that will do the conversion (it’s only 60$). If you used a crank sensor, you’d need to output the 134 pulses per rev anyways with some kind of pulse converter. You could sense off the...

The tach is apparently designed to read at 134 pulses per revolution, as that is the tooth count on the Cat flywheels. 134 pulses / 5.33 = 25.14 alternator pulses per revolution on the 6.2 is approximately what I'm getting with the stock CUCV pulley ratio. I didn't measure the pulleys yet, but...

Well, I got the tach to work with a magic box I got on eBay. It allowed me to change the ratios and test things out. At 2000 rpm engine speed, the tach read 1500 with a 1:4 ratio. With a 1:6 ratio it read 2250. So, I calculated out the correct ratio should be 1:5.33 i can get a custom box...

I don’t think both plugs is an option. The spring on the one plug is a contact jumper. Like I said, I tried it all 3 ways and it doesn’t make it work properly. I found a box on eBay that the guy thinks should make it work with the alternator. In the big trucks they used a flywheel sensor with...

You’re right, it’s not a switch. I soldered jumpers to the 3 pins that it can connect and was then able to test all options without taking the gauge apart. It It changes some resistors on the board, but doesn’t do squat from what Ive seen.

So, I tried the Dakota Digital box, and it doesn't work with the 4k rpm tach. I can't get a readout over probably 100 RPM. I tried all kinds of settings and even called in to tech support to try and get some assistance. I hooked the tach back up without the Dakota box, and played with the A/B...

In doing more research, the 3100 series cat engines drove the tach from the engine control module. I'm guessing that these tachs might be set up for way more pulses per rev than a "standard" diesel alternator tach.

I have the original plug in the tach, and it's clearly marked/labeled how to hook it up. 12v-gnd-coil. I'm grounded directly to the grounding bar, so I'm certain that isn't the issue. I'm taking the signal off the alternator, tapped in right out of the alternator plug. I have been using this...

The “switch” you are mentioning connects 2 terminals on the board or none, there is a A and a B setting, along with taking out the switch/bridge. I’m not sure why a tach that works off the alternator would care if it’s an 8 or 6 cylinder, the alternator wouldn’t know or care. It doesn’t seem to...

Anyone actually get this to factory 4000 rpm tach with gauge to work? I just put one in and it reads about 1/4 the speed it should. Open to suggestions....