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The cartridge valves were made on a military contract with special part numbers. Those literal parts don't seem to be commercially available anymore but what you can do is get like-parts at similar pressure ratings from their commercial product line. The Parker cartridge sizings are standard, so...

So here we go. Of my 3x 2-way valves, one of them didn't have a good detent. The one for the crane. I think this was also the valve that was leaking, so that will need to be replaced. The other 2-way valves have good solid clicks and turn smoothly so I think they just need the rebuild kits if at...

OK so keeping in mind I had the cab lines disconnected entirely for safety, the crane was still extended and wouldn't go back in. If I selected the cab functions, it would pump hydro out the disconnected port in the back, and was properly choosing the right port for raise/lower. Which still...

OK so did as advertised, rigged a winch line to the latch on the cab and then cracked the lines. I opted to do it on the back of the box. The cab lines are the topmost ones so at least that was easy. There wasn't too much pressure when it was all said and done. The cab is settled forward, I...

All these intermittent I-jiggled-the-valves-a-lot-and-then-it-worked stories sound more and more like contamination or debris in the system. So I have a helper coming today and we're going to rig the cab in case it tries to fall and then crack the low-side return line and then pump it to raise...

On the upside, this was a great opportunity to fix my throttle return spring and adjust the slack out of my throttle cable. Maybe my pedal will stop sticking down now...

I think tomorrow I'll rig it up and crack the lines and I guess we'll just see. And then I'll rebuild the manifold.

I think you might have meant 19-20.10 in -20-4. That's the one that details the three little check valves on the side. So you're saying that's what provides the backpressure to the ram, so if I just crack the hoses to bleed them it'll fall? There are the "cartridge valve" things too. 19-20.12

I've been through the TMs backwards and forwards. My problem isn't per-say taking it apart, it is how to get it so I can take it apart. Which includes the filters at the top because I cannot be certain they are not pressurized. Or that depressurizing the system accidentally by removing them...

So I pulled the return line on the tank and with the valves all lined up and under pressure, it only drips. drip drip drip. So I guess either the hose is clogged, unlikely, or there's something gimped with the selector valve in the manifold... If you spin that valve enough you can take pressure...

I tried that and for sure - no. I know people make mistakes and it's good to point things out but I have the basics covered - there's plenty of fluid, and I've operated the valves lots of times, I know how they work. Something is clogged on the low side. Just so we're all clear what I mean by...

The part I don't get is why would the seal in the air pump be causing back-pressure on the low-pressure side? I can understand why it would be blowing out of the pump on the high pressure side if there was another unrelated problem on the low side and the pressure was too high - and I think that...

Spamming my own thread... Yeah so it's some kind of valve on the low (relief) side I am all but certain. If I pump the manual jack I see the lift cylinder move ever so slightly and then it springs back. And the manual jack is all springy too, it's just building a ton of pressure on that side...

Sigh, "If you see puffs of "smoke" coming up then your internal pump seal is bad and will need to be rebuilt.". Yep.

Sounds just like http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?148665-Cab-and-spare-hydraulics-problems-M1078-LMTV

It was something simple - I poured a couple of gallons of distilled water into it until the tank was full and fired it up. It was leaking pretty good out of one of the fittings, which turned out to be finger tight. Tightened it up and it holds water fine now. I've got pictures to post but now my...

It's not that the tank is corroding I don't think, it's that material has been building up in the neck. It looks more like they used regular tap-water and the minerals crystallized. If I look inside the tank it looks bare and clean.

Working on the (other) LMTV Well last night I took the LMTV out to the grocery store (ha!) and noticed in the parking lot that it was spraying a fluid on the inside pax side wheel well. I thought it was hydro or maybe a oil leak - oil level was good, coolant was good, so I drove it home. When I...