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Check the fuses first, they love to pull them. On mine at least, the abs light is default on and the abs computer has to turn it off.

That was someone else's. Mine had abs light on with no codes, weird reading for battery voltage, and wouldn't respond to modulator tests. Looked like a small amount of water got in a messed things up.

Turns out the ABS ECU was the problem. New one tested and working as it should.

Got a perfectly working CTIS controller for $39 that way, not all can be winners though.

Sounds good I'll contact you if this next one is also bad. It's already shipped.

Do you know if it's a known good one?

Ordered a used ABS module off ebay. Looked a heck of a lot better than mine did...on the outside. I plugged it in but couldn't talk to it at all. Decided to pull it apart and see what I could find...well it's pretty obvious why it wasn't working: Then I decided to pull my original one apart...

Got a new LBCD because mine was crusty. New batteries as well. Showing .7 V drop across LBCD and voltage over 10v cranking. ABS still not functioning. All wheel sensors are reading properly, all modulator valves have good resistance to abs ECU. Not getting any error codes at all. ABS light is on...

Good to know! Will try out the new lbcd and see if that changes things. It's also got 4x generic group 24(?) batteries currently so I'm not sure their performance

Awesome, that's the place I found. I have the 100amp alternator and it will not run (orange flashing) while the intake heater is on. Boy does that thing draw some power. May be over the safe limit for mine, your 260 would likely fair far better with no lbcd

Yeah I saw that. The back has no discoloration and the internal threads look good. I'm sure I could spend the time to fix it up but juice worth the squeeze for old caps... probably not. I see a whole load of them for sale from a vendor on eBay, although they don't look as nice condition as the...

Well that's a strange stepped stud, hard to tell but looks like there might be a bevel washer where that nut came out. Looks like the nut had to be epoxied while the stud was installed as well.

Soo....is this normal or a really odd repair?

Checked some voltages: Battery voltage: 12.48-12.51 for all 4 Ignition on voltage - at batteries: 12.33V Cranking voltage min - at batteries: 10.13V At terminal under PDP and at ABS ecm between both +12v and both ground wires mirrored the voltages at PDP Ignition on: 11.34V Cranking voltage...

Well checked under the PDP and found a lot of power distribution stud nuts finger tight. Also some corrosion to clean off. Found paint under the chassis ground stud as well. Fixed everything but still same situation with ABS. The "ignition voltage" is still reading under the "battery voltage"...

Yep, I've got to test the V=IR, but under load. This truck has me buying more and more tools. I'll have to see if my old oscilloscope can record with a starter trigger.

Checked resistance to all 4 modulators from the connectors at ABS, all right at 5.1-5.3 ohm so all in spec (4-9 ohm) Checked resistance to ground from both pins, both at 0.2, but need to check voltage under load still.

Not sure there actually is a "condition" just that the most voltage sag will be during cranking. It has 4 fresh batteries, all measuring well voltage wise. Truck cranks quickly. Obviously that's not an all-inclusive test of battery, grounds, etc. I'll look into this as well though.

Yeah I looked at that, but since it only popped up during cranking (low voltage condition) I wasn't giving it much trust. There was no memorized or active flag either. Considering I don't have any other things to test though, it's next on my list

Took it out and all speed sensors working fine. No codes except right after cranking the engine I got a fault code that then went away. I'm guessing just from the voltage drop, but maybe not? I did try engaging the ABS on some gravel but I was only going about 10 mph or so so maybe it's below...