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I'd be a lot calmer about this thread if I had not put the surplus rings into my rebuild as well. I am getting started to drop the engine in....we'll see. My LDS has the new style 3-ring pistons, so I have reasonable hope that I am ok.

So, in practical terms, what does the difference mean? The longer LDS arm will push the valve stem farther (open the valve more), with the push rod travel being the same? The cross section of the air passages does not change - what is the significance, other than perhaps a little less...

I know that rocker arm differences for the intake valves have been mentioned before. TM9-2815-210-34-2-1 tabulates the LD/LDS/LDT engines (table 1.3) and just above the table speaks to the rocker arms. It states that the intake rocker arms for the LDS-465-2 are different in that they have an oil...

Wildchild467 gives us the same treatment as our favourite tv show, where you are all primed for a spectacular season finale....and they play three weeks of re-runs before that!

Not to side-track, but I will have to break in my engine the normal way - by driving. After install, I will need to idle the engine to ensure it runs reasonably well, compressor builds air and that there are no leaks before I get going. How long of an idle period is acceptable before the engine...

In order to re-torque the heads, the valve train has to come off anyway, correct? Would removing/replacing the valve train not automatically require valve re-adjustment?

Yes, I can attest to the fact that the replacement rings come in a pack and two of them are marked "TOP", two are not and it made me very nervous when I put mine on. I also noticed that in the original military pack, oil paper and all, the rings were NOT all in the right orientation as a set. I...

If you open up the bottom of the engine, you can always plastigauge 2 or 3 main bearings (only need to loosen the brackets that hold the oil pipe to the block so that you can get the socket on). That would give you a quick estimate as to where the main bearings are, wear-wise, and then decide...

Apologies - not intending to hijack. Does "retorque" involve running the engine to operating temp, taking off valve covers and valve train and setting torque wrench to final torque (130 ft lbs for non TD, 157 for TD) and going over the head nuts at the original sequence?

Just curious - the instructions I received for the new style headgaskets were " dry install, step-by-step torque to spec and no retorque required".

Man, that aint happy days. As for blow-by, it has been reported that, even after a good and thorough rebuild, these engines will still have blow-by. Some more, some less. I fully agree with the line of testing that you began. Compression and leakdown for starters. I am not sure that...

Trying to avoid a flamed discussion here. It is a little bit like having cheap carpet installed...the labour is exactly the same. It depends what one wants. If the goal is just to have a running truck, a good takeout is probably the most cost-effective way. One needs to compare apples to...