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I would not even attempt to start that CUCV without the starter support bracket in place. You are asking for problems. In the cold it is 10 fold with the strain all going into the starter bolts. You will learn quick if you snap a bolt off flush with the block and chew up a good flex-plate. It's...

I think you need a thin shim on the starter. It is slightly stuck out to long in the flywheel after the engine starts. Just an observation from experience. Worth a try. And make sure the support braket is in place and tight. So the starter is not twisting and making that engagement sound. I hope...

Hey if this truck runs and starts now. The title should be I finally got the M1009 started. :D Were all these changes needed just to get the truck to start? Does it run and drive now?

Over the years I have run every type of starter I found and bought. I have had no problems. It everything is aligned, adjusted, and good strong batteries you will be in good shape. It is a toss up to how long it lasts. How many times did you over heat the starter cranking it when out of fuel or...

That flex-plate is wasted. You will need to replace that. Or you can run it and hope for the best. It will go for a while. But it could get to the point where it will not engage at all. I seen a guy turn his engine over a bit with a 15/16" socket to get away from the gnarled teeth on the ring...

What sucks is he was going to stop over tonight about 15 mins before the starter issues so i could go over what I found and fixed and then talk about new 60Gs and a filter conversion. His plan is to take this to his vacation home in Colorado but wants to ensure its reliable starting and running...

OK first off I don't have any fancy gauges to check for fuel. i remove the filter or open the bleed valve. Crank it over it is either pumping fuel or not. If not remove the feed line from the pump. Does it have fuel? If not change pump. A less then $25. repair. no need to change the fuel filter...

You need the Mighty Vac pump. It will pressurise and vacuum. It will handle small PSI. It is also handy for bleeding brakes and fuel systems. Just a suggestion. I have 2 of them and use them regularly.

WOW. Glow plugs have nothing to do with fuel economy or power band increases. After the diesel engine has started from cold you could cut/remove the wires off the glow plugs and they are no longer needed until the next cold start up. They serve no other purpose other then ignite the fuel on cold...

That post was for Wagner

Check all your glow plugs. You could have a few dead ones. Maybe just 1.

I have no issues. My vehicles are all running on the 13 G plugs. I am out dated myself and I am still running. And believe me a lot faster and longer then the newer models. Any glow plug is prone to failure. Any thing. Leak proof seals will. Nothing is infallible if it is man made it will fail...

Imagine that. I have been doing it all wrong all these years. NOT. it still gives you a heads up and a bird eye view of the glow plugs and the glow plug tips. Better catch one early that is swelling then wait till you have to pry and curse in the middle of the worst snow storm in history. I may...

I always just take them out and look at them. I test them with some oil and a wire. if it smokes instantly it's good. if not scrap. Try testing it a few times. I can usually tell just by looking at them if they are good.

Just eliminate that pressure switch with a self tapping screw and some sealant if you can't find any. I find them on Ebay for less then $20. I have 1 truck that has the screw in it. It was out of desperation on a snowy night or I would have fixed it right. Been that way a couple years.But...

I have been using snow plow relays with great success.