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WOW sorry to hear that. I was hoping to see you climbing that power line again. Here's a picture in your mind. The m1010 climbing the power line. i can't find my pictures when we were wheeling. Imagine that?

Is this engine spraying fuel out of the delivery nozzle lines? And did you remove the glow plugs so it cranks rapidly? That is how I get mine to fire up. Even on engines I never heard run before. I had a time a few years ago with a HMMWV engine I installed in a CUCV. But it eventually fired...

I never seen an electric pump and a manual pump in line. Are you sure you have the right manual pump? I can't imagine how an electric pump would push fuel past a manual pump. And if it did what is the point of both? I did cover the wrong pumps in the past. I wonder if it is that simple that you...

Line on line always worked for me forever and today. I have truck with over 200K on them pushing snow. I am not sure how to tell the difference unless I have a brand new 6.2 CUCV to compare it to. Our 1/2 ton Silverado with a 4.3 has more power then the 6.2 in the M1009. But side by side they...

I seen that was missing in the picture. I was assuming you were showing that the slotted hole gets used with the peg and not the round hole. Good Luck.

I would just put it on an make sure everything is as clean/dry as possible. You may get a small amount misplaced. Just be careful as you can. Nothing will happen with a small residual amount coming in contact with mechanical parts. I would use gaskets if you have a major concern. They work well...

That will work. And believe me. It is THE RIGHT STUFF. It works wonders. It has not failed me ever. Make sure you have clean surfaces and pre-clean them so they are oil and silicone free. I use acetone, DX 330 or denatured alcohol. Some kind of solvent. MEK, MAK Lacquer thinner. They all work...

The valve covers are fine. Just clean them well with a wire wheel and use Permatex The Right Stuff and reassemble after you clean everything up. Place them on a flat surface and lightly tap the flange level again. They are not scrap. Trust me. Keep going you are doing GREAT.

That Orange gasket material is the Genuine GM sealant they were using at the time. That was good stuff. They changed the compound in it now. #0 years and things got better. i would have avoided removing the valve covers if they were not leaking. But you are ahead of that now. You need a small...

Small screw driver in the one side. Just pop the clip and the loom holders open like a clam shell. The clip holding them is on one side only. Be patient. How rusty are the valve covers? Are you going to remove them? Are they leaking? If they are not leaking I would treat them in place.

Just tighten them up. All is well. If you have it this far no need to go get more tools. i know they have a torque. But tight is good enough. I am sure brake line fittings and hose clamps have a torque. I never see anyone torquing them. Just don't do chin ups on the wrench. And a 3/4" wrench...

That should be running by 12 noon tomorrow. Good Luck.

You need to grind down a 13 MM open end wrench. Remember I said about a thin 13mm and a thin 15mm? Hold that nut and crank it out. It is just a vacuum line. a hose will fix it. Or a new piece of metal line. You can do it.

No tricks. i have a set of short wrenches. I just know it is tight back there. I never removed the battery tray. But do what you must. How is it going? I use the 2" rolok disc's to get the gaskets off. Does a nice job. How long till it's running again?

JGP. My advise. Do not remove the delivery nozzles as mentioned. No need to remove them. The problem you are having is in the injection pump itself. The only special tools that I can think of is a thin 15 mm open end wrench and possibly a thin 13mm open end wrench. The 15mm you will need to get...