Search results

Your truck was built with a NON EGR intake. The CUCV's were emissions exempt. So yes just get an injection pump for a J code. Actually just order the pump on line and they will send a self addressed mailer for you to attach to return your core. Not saying you will get the exact same pump back...

The injection pump is an easy inexpensive swap. I am ready for the fall out but I used Diesel Care and it cost less than $350. from door to engine. I changed many and have had few to no problems. There are a lot of CUCV's out there running that I used Diesel Care injection pumps on. Do as you...

I will sell you a good running long block 6.2 that came out of a HMMWV for less than rebuilding a 350 from start to finish. 8 hours east and 8 hours west. You could have it in a running in 2 weeks or less if you were energetic enough. I understand.

That is not an upgrade. You can rebuild the 6.2 for less money. That also retains the value of the CUCV. Maybe you don't care. But I want you to consider that option. Have a Great Day. 1984-1986 gas engine Blazers are not worth much these days. Just keep that in mind. The diesel is what makes it...

Is it getting fuel to the nozzles? Do the glow plugs work? Just pouring in mystery fluids will do no good if the fuel does not get delivered to the nozzles the correct time. I think it is the injection pump. It must get fuel delivery. I think the clunking is the starter getting tired of cranking...

You tried heat and couldn't get the nuts off the tank straps? Cherry RED gets it every time. Good Luck. The tank straps are inexpensive. It don't matter if the are made in China or Katmandu. If they fit and get tight they are the right ones. Good Luck.

Strap nuts I would heat and remove. Toss the old ones and get 4 new ones. 7/16 X 14 nuts. Less than $2. and no more aggravation. Spraying rust helps but heat is the silver bullet. I know it's a fuel tank but I weld closer than that at fuel tanks all the time on new trucks. No wet fuel and all is...

Not that bad. 6 9/16" hex headed 3/8" bolts. If they are tight spray them and use a ratchet and work them out. Use a propane torch to heat them. Provided you checked for fuel leaks. After they are out. Toss the old ones and buy 6 new ones. Same as the 7/16" strap nuts. Heat them, remove them and...

Hate to tell you this but I would drop the tank and change the fuel pick up sock. While you have it out blow out all the lines and start from there. That is a tough job getting the tank up and down. I would say 8 hours start to finish doing it right and cleaning and painting as you go. Good...

Well thank you very much for that motor mount information. But I think his main concern was the frame perches part of the motor mount. Not the actual motor mount. And it has been a while but the big block mounts will fit the frame perches. I don't recall drilling the frame on the truck frames...

This looks like an easier route then changing the engine. And if it works and holds the other repairs will still be easier then the engine change. Good Luck.

I found this while digging around for words to help with the welding. It pretty much sums it up. I have a few good blocks in PA if you ever get by this way. Very inexpensive. I hope this helps. I fixed a few forklift blocks back when money was tight. 1) Degrease as best as you can. Oil &...

So the crack is in the water jacket and not in the combustion chambers? May sound strange but I would weld it. If the engine runs good and it is static coolant leak I would get a good welder to weld the cast iron block. I have welded blocks before. Damaged cast iron engines that were low...

Is it possible it is a head gasket leaking?

Questions I have: Are the engine mounts and bell housing the same? Can I use the same radiator? Will the accessories carry over to the 454? I'd like to keep the alternator and hydro-boost. Planning on pulling trans for rebuild at the same time. Is it easier pull engine and trans together or...

30 mm socket will work. Just pull evenly. I have a 30 mm Snap On nozzle socket. But I have used a standard 30 mm deep.