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That's great! Don't forget to hold the pedal down some while cranking. It helps set the high idle solenoid and seems to make them start easier cold.

Hard to guess on the swelling, hopefully they just blew fast.

Have a meter with you, and test/confirm your new relay. Do not trust the counter sales person or trust that it is the correct part in the correct box. Test it. Others have been burned(no pun intended) when buying the correct relay. Just check it!

The glow plug relay does need to have an isolated ground (no continuity between any of the 4 terminals, to ground(it's mount))to work with a stock glow plug controller card and wiring. two numbers off the top of my head are GP109 or St85 relays. "ford" relays are not compatible with the...

Do you have 24 or 12 volts supplied to the relay? What is/was your front battery voltage, if it is resupplied with 12v?

Measure the voltage at input side of the relay, and on the output side. If it is not the same after the relay has closed(for a few seconds), then your relay is not making 100% connection. Replace it, if thats the case.

When the relay is activated (clicks), you should only have 12v at the bottom of the relay. Any more, and your glow plugs are bad. any less that 12v and your relay is bad. To test your glow plugs, unplug the wires and measure the gp for resistance. no resistance means they are bad. you...

5, is the 12 volt junction/terminal. It supplies the whole vehicles 12v stuff(like a civilian vehicle has). It is also where we connect a new supply wire to resupply the gp relay with 12 volts, as a modification to protect the glow plugs from all burning out when one goes bad. 1,2,3,4 are...

Put the red probe on the bottom stud(output side) on the gp relay. Put the black probe to ground(engine or body) Also, while the gp relay is energized, measure the input side(top side and see if there is a difference in voltage. If it is different, your relay is bad.