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Check your actual ignition switch too, I ran through/tested 3 of these before my issues were solved. My issue was that aftermarket (purchased through both Kascar and Mac) start switches were leaving flea current to the starter in the "run" position, so the bendix was staying engaged on the...

My testing consisted of leaving the primary 24V lugs disconnected, and then just kicking the bendix out with a bench top power supply hooked to the solenoid positive. I was pretty paranoid with that being my 3rd starter at that point 🤣

I would personally throw the starter in, apply voltage to the solenoid, and just manually watch the bendix engage into the flexplate without actually trying to turn it over. I’d do this in a few spots along then flexplate by manually turning the crankshaft over. This should at least give you an...

Best bet for a starter I’ve found found is to get a reman original direct drive. New ones run for around $1300 last I saw, reman can be had for around $500 if you dig around. I unfortunately can’t attest to the performance of those geared non direct starters, or how they mount. I’d love to hear...

The 6.2 and 6.5 use the same flexplate and bolts I believe: Flexplate: https://www.hummerpartsguy.com/FLYWHEEL-ENGINE-DIESEL_p_1025.html Bolts: https://www.hummerpartsguy.com/BOLT-FLYWHEEL-DIESEL_p_1142.html Give HPG a call if you want to be 100% sure but that’s what I was going to swap on my 6.5

@FlameRed It’s a bit of a read but I also suggest reading my thread on this: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/humvee-starter-flexplate-teeth.210931/ I ran into enough stupid issues that I hope many can learn from lol