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Now that sounds right! :) Good job!

I bet they didn't even torque them and they used an impact wrench for tightening.

That makes perfect sense since the rockers don't have any adjustments. Unlike the 003a which you have to adjust every 500 hours, the 803a's do not need adjusting. Which means, they torqued the rockers down so hard they deformed the metal pressing harder on the valves. Good work!

I would try the dead crank switch to see if you hear the noise with no fuel entering the cylinder. You should still hear the ploop, ploop, noise if it is the valves.

Really sounds like a valve problem. You can definitely hear the plop, plop in the video.

Sounds like a valve problem with the plop, plop, noise you're hearing. Usually with a bad pump or injector, it wont get up to speed (not enough fuel) or will smoke terribly (to much fuel).

I stand corrected kloppk. USAmilRet its the 24th page from the beginning or the 3rd page from last of -24 TM for the schematics.

Yes that is the schematic I'm referring to. But there is no detailed schematic with wire numbers.

That's what I'm thinking, K16 (crank disconnect). Try swapping the Relay with another one and make sure all your connections are tight on K16. I've been searching the schematics and can not find L5 (fuel solenoid) or any wires going to L5. The only description is on the colored schematic that...

No this is not common. I've worked on hundreds of 802a/803a's and only seen a broken rocker on 1 unit. The rocker didn't actually break but the head stud actually broke right above the bolt head of the stud.

Also remember that there are mistakes in the TM so don't always trust them but 99% of the time they are correct. Just wanted to throw that out there. :)

I agree and posted this in one of the first few post of this thread. I still cant believe it broke the rocker instead of bending the push rod worse but if it was already weak, who knows.

You may already know this but the rings have a certain way they go on "up and down" and they are marked on the rings for the orintentiation.

You're doing a great job! I would not worry about going any further after you verify all the rings are set correctly because you know the builder did not go any further than you have. Now, you will be the expert on these engines because most people have not been this far into these as you are...

Every engine I've worked on had the pushrods stamped with the year the engine was manufactured. I could always tell someone had been into an engine before me if the pushrod had different dates on them. But if they all have the same date, I wouldn't be worried, just if they all had different...

I don't have a dog in this fight but from the start, I think the seller was up front and didn't try to hide anything. He told USAMILRet everything that was wrong and it was USAMilRet decision to buy the unit "as is". USAMILRet knew what he was buying before the transaction ever took place. I...

If you have rebuilt any motor, then you can do these. The hardest part about the head is getting the push rod tubes and head gasket aligned while reinstalling the head. It's really straight forward but the head is heavy trying to do it alone. Also it's easier in my opinion to pull and reinstall...

Whoaaaaa! I can't believe it was running. Push rod part number is 186-6098 and they are expensive. I think the lowest price I every found was $35 but I can't find any cheaper than $50. I've had units with the rocker arm stud broke off but never seen the actual rocker broken in half. The original...

After watching that video, I'm leaning towards injectors. Since the engine was rebuilt you shouldn't have that much smoke coming out, then at the end of the video it's showing signs of carbon been burned off (the sparks coming out the exhaust). I bought a set of new injectors off ebay from...