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work continues on the tractor....brakes are okay, started with the rusty door on passengers side..

update....new sender, new gauge, wiring is okay, ground (sender and gauge okay) and she's running when cold about 55 psi oil press (pressure starts about 2 seconds after starting and running idle ) Thanks for all the tips guys !!!

i know, in my jeep m38a1 i have installed all mechanical ones….(but there was nothing so i had to build it up) i will see what the new one reads (and how long) but i keep in mind to do the swap for all mechanical, (temp and pressure)

removing the seal from the right front windshield, i believe this one was not installed the right way...can someone tell me towards where the flat side of the new seal should point ? (logical to me seems outside, because the angled side of the seal fits more nice in the corners of the windshield...

Thank you sir, but i should thank you and your dad, and so much others …. keep the memory alive

what else to do when the deuce is too hot to handle and yet no place big enough to put her under? then sitting on the porch doing repair old style of the canvas cabin top.

oil change done, it was not messy at all, draining oil from the 2 pans , and above all, removing the 2 filters was a nice job (i dint run the truck for over a week so the oil had enough time to drain from the filters i assume/hope), new oil, new filters, now waiting for the sending unit and...

just ordered oil pressure sending unit MS24538 60 psi and gauge MS24541-2, so we'll see what it does, i will also do an oil change with the correct oil .

how to check if there is oil circulation ? when idling and unscrewing the sender unit a tiny bit, oil pours out trough the threads...

oil pressure the wiring is okay, one wire 24 volts and the other comes from the sending unit and are not broken, the sending unit is 60psi, also the gauge reads up to 60 psi. but this is my gauge , not from m-series i believe (metal connectors instead of rubber ones), i will order a correct one...

oil pressure sending unit should it be like this?? the end wich looks like a piece of metal wire is sticking out and is bend a bit....its free, wich means it can move a tiny bit up and down next to the connector on the top is also something sticking out , looks like it is for soldering a...

next issue …..gauge does not read any oil pressure, maybe the sending unit is stuck ? however its running fine, no strange noises or so….is there a way to determine if there is some pressure ? i m going to take out the sending unit in a minute and checking the wiring, is that one working with...

the horn is working just fine with the repair kit installed, everything that shoud be on the steering wheel was missing...and some wiring was not connected where it should (thanks to davidb56), now its loud…..just loud

thats one of the first things i did, cleaning and check all possible grease fittings and pouring nice new grease in them….however few fittings from the front spring leaves are stucked….the front driveshaft on my tractor does not have any journals, with a flange on the transfer case straight...

yes !!! like that one on post 75, with the delineators on it, looks much nicer, thanks !!!!

whats the easiest way to remove a broken u-joint ? remove clips and punch the cups out from the inside out ? or removing the complete shaft with yokes, the one on the front drive shaft (transfer case side) is broken. does someone have some pics how the rear taillights and mudguards should be...

thanks !!! the circuit breaker is automatic if i'm right ? i mean if there is or was a shortcut is shutting off and on again without doing something with it ? this must be easy to find, i dont have much breakers in the engine bay , a few wich are bolted to the firewall.

Next issue untill my airpack rebuild kit arrivés.....the air horn , there are 2 cables connected, one is ground that comes from the button on the steering collumn, on the other one is constantly 24 volts , thats the one thats broken and i can not figure out where it came from, all the wires are...

thanks !!! what a great idea, is there a reason why the right rear gladhand ? is it the one that's the most far in the system? like with bleeding the brakes i think that's also the place to start or is there another reason ?

did anybody do a rebuild of the hydrovac brake system used on the reo m35-m275 ? the master cilinder is ok, the vent hole is open, pedal freeplay is ok, pedal return spring is present, filled with silicone brake fluid...still when building up pressure all brakes lock on, when shutting down you...