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I agree it looks like oil seepage from somewhere. The engine was clean and dry when I started it. I did swap out the worthless hertz gauge though. Now also thinking about getting a digital amp/load meter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks all. I borrowed a double oven today and put both ovens to bake at 400 degrees. After 2 hours and no hiccups, I turned everything off. The generator ran great. I swapped out the analog hertz meter with a digital one and it held 240-242v at 60 hz the entire time. The load meter...

Yes. It goes from running solid to dying off like it’s starving for fuel after about 5- 10 seconds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Before posting, I actually let the prime run for 5 minutes (counted) before trying. Same thing happened.

It fires right up when I crank it but only runs for 5 seconds before it starts to die off so I don't think holding it in start will make much of a difference. I do hold start long enough to get oil pressure though.

Pulled return line and I get a nice stream of diesel. Cracked the first injector line after the filter open and sound on prime pump changed. Bled it for a second, closed and started normally. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll pull the return line and doublecheck. I usually wait with the prime until the sound changes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Open the two screws on top of the filter and push air through. Then crack each injector nozzles open while the fuel pump is running. After I close everything it starts and runs fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Starter relay installed and everything works! Now to find out why it seems as though I’m losing some prime. I have to bleed the system to get it to run for some reason. Checking all my connections now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you. Found one on ebay for $100. I'll now have $475 in this generator...:grin:

Good continuity from ground to x2. Looking at the wiring diagram it would appear that this is also the reason why the fuel solenoid will hold open when I manually open it but it won't open automatically. Now to find a K2 relay...

Yes. 24v on x1. Nothing on x2 when s1 is turned on. Thinking that’s my problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay got a chance to probe it today. K2 does not get voltage at A2 when S1 is placed into start or run. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you! When I get home this evening I will see what I can figure out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got 24v at k2. K18 has both the wires for the preheat and a positive to the starter on it. Getting 24v on both sides of the lugs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK. I found K2 but it looks like a small lightweight relay. Not a starter solenoid. When I get a chance I will check that for voltage and report back. I greatly appreciate your help. Trying to read the schematics on PDF and flipping back-and-forth is difficult to say the least. I flew a load...

This is what I replaced. What am I missing now? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, I replaced the starter solenoid (k18.) Previously I said this was the starter relay. I was incorrect. I now get a solid "click" and voltage across to both lugs. The TM is reading like VCR programming instructions. Now what?

S1 was in run. I didn't realize that I evidently have to move it to start (momentary?) in order to be able to engage the AC field. I only bought a new starter relay, not a starter so we shall see. I also bought a multimeter that displays hertz. Unfortunately at the scale it shows, I can...

Well now it works... It took forever for me to figure out what the simple issue was but robertsears comment got me to thinking. Since I was jumping the starter lug I was not using the start switch so I decided to turn the switch to start after the engine was running. Would you believe that...