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I bought a 135 amp breaker and a 80 amp breaker from ASE. They are the auto reset type. From the install guide: "2. Provide the appropriate circuit breaker or fuse protection. Fuses or circuit breakers protect the wiring in the event of a short to ground and should be sized approximately 25%...

Did you order some breakers as well? If not, see the attached installation guide for sizing. The Sure Power will most definitely solve your problem. The hardest part will be running the 4 AWG wire inside the engine compartment. My install used 2 AWG. Good luck.

Well, my analog meter confirms the output is 28.5v so my in dash gauge may be weak.

Keith What voltage are you seeing across the 24v system when the truck is running? I don't recall where I left my regulators, but I am seeing about 28v across my 24v side with the truck running. My voltage gauge is in the green, but about 1/8" before the white hash mark. Also - one thing to...

10-12 MPG is about what I get on the highway with my M1010. I drive her around 60 MPH and try hard not to exceed 65. My truck really purrs though...for a while I thought the gear ratio was different, but it does have the stock 4.56 gearing. Edit: Come to think of it, my MPG calcs were done...

A 12v gauge inside the truck might be useful to monitor the DUVAC. The normal GEN1 and GEN2 light wont indicate if there is a problem for this scenario. I've been thinking about adding one to monitor my battery equalizer.

What was the radio shack part number? That is awesome that you got it working...truly awesome!

My AC system was converted over to R134A. I was told by my AC tech that the compressor used on these trucks is bullet proof. I had some leaks in the hoses under my truck and replaced them. Once that was fixed, I found the evap fans were shot. They kept blowing the fuse. I fixed one by taking...

You can test this yourself by adjusting the regulator on the LN to the low setting and by applying different voltages to the field circuit. The lowest I could get mine to output was 18v. That was with a regulated 5v input to the field. Prestolite confirmed my findings when I contacted them...

Keep in mind, the Leece Neville (LN from here on) alternator cannot output under 18v on it's own. The regulator is supposed to pulse the field circuit on the LN to achieve a lower voltage and not cook your battery. I could never get mine to work correctly so opted to replace the DUVAC completely...

A replacement DUVAC, if you can find one, will most likely cost as much or more than a solid battery equalizer. Your assessment of how the DUVAC works is partially correct. The system (DUVAC) is compromised of a voltage regulator and a batter isolator. It is supposed to provide both 28v and 14v...

If you get the aux fuel pump running ( run a 24v jumper wire ), you can drain the tank out the back of the truck. There should be a Tee and a valve to open under the rear fuel fired heater.

:jumpin: Nice to know it is finally home! I guess I can expect some PMs in the near future. :-P

I know Bergstrom made the AC. The motors inside the AC for the evap fans (2) were made by Allied Motion. The 28vdc alternator is made by Leece Neville.

Yes - he is talking about the DUVAC. Good question!! I only recently got my AC working 100%. I let it run for about 30 minutes at high, then checked the cab area and it was quite cool. I am hoping it will work well without a deflector or fan, but had the thought to use some sort of flexible...

By the way, I know the photo you are referring to with the large red seat in the back of the M1010. That was definitely a unit modification! It looks like all your missing is the passenger side hanging litter, but those stretchers make up for that!

I think you do, here is one of your photos cropped and scaled.

Mark I just found some of what you may be looking for in the -10 TM. Check appendix B and C. It would be nice to find a copy of the "9-2320-289-10-HR" which will give a better breakdown.