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Guy, what are your thoughts on the glow plug resistance values? We're both seeing .4 to .5 ohms. The TM says they should be 4 to 5 ohms. There's a big difference between 1/2 of an ohm and 5 ohms. Thanks.

Rich, I’m wondering if that’s a typo in the TM? Their figure for a good heater is 4 to 5 ohms. We’re both seeing .4 to .5 ohms.

3-6.2. Inspect and Measure. a. Inspect manifold for cracks, corrosion, or other damage. Replace if damaged. b. Inspect attaching hardware for damage. Replace if damaged. c. Inspect heater plugs for damage. d. Set multimeter for ohms and test heater plugs. Normal reading is 4 to 5 ohms. Zero...

Here’s what I get while using my Fluke. I’m just going to the top of each of the 4 glow plugs and to ground without taking any of the cables off. .3 to .4 ohms. I’ll check the TM and see what it should be and report back. Zero ohms doesn’t sound right though.

Based on your thread here I checked the two 10kw units that I have here now. Thanks for sharing your experience! So was it S1 that stuck or K18? I see that I’m lucky to have the ceramic S1 on both of these units.

Perfect! I guess where I was going with this is that this is probably a good reason to NOT use starting fluid on these units, unless the glow plugs are disabled. It could be a problem!

That's good to know. Thanks!

I've been seeing a mix of round and square S1's. I've just always "assumed" that the glow plug operation on these units was strictly manual, turning the S1 to the pre-heat position.

Just curious. If the preheat relay is energized with S1 in the crank position is this feature temperature related? As in will K18 only pull in at ambient temperatures below a specific threshold?