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I just took a look at the schematics. MT7 is the oil pressure gauge sending unit. M7 is the actual gauge. The single wire number that you're looking for at the gauge is 130B, at the sending unit its 130A. There's a terminal board or two in between the gauge and the sender.

It’s been my experience that the gauge on these units is what usually fails, probably from excessive vibration. If you can verify that the wiring to the gauge is correct, and that you’re getting power to the gauge when S1 is turned on, AND the wire from the gauge to the sender has continuity...

The two wire switch is for low oil pressure shut-down. It doesn’t affect the gauge. The bell shaped sender with one wire is what works the gauge. It’s basically a variable resistor that changes it’s “R” value when the pressure increases. If you disconnect that one wire and turn S1 on, the gauge...

The oil pressure sending unit is located on same side of the engine as the fuel pumps. It’s remotely located right above the fuel filter.

Pretty simple with a one wire sender. This works for any gauge. Ohm check the wire from the sender to the gauge. If that’s good, with the wire disconnected from the sender and the gauge supplied with power, the gauge should be pegged on the high side. With the wire disconnected from the sender...

I wouldn’t want to use the self resetting circuit breaker that I mentioned earlier in an AC circuit without having it secured and encased. Something about having exposed terminals in an AC circuit doesn’t appeal to me😳 120 VAC hurts! 24 VDC doesn’t hurt at all🙂

You’re correct, these are for DC circuits only. They won’t work in an AC circuit.

They can also be used when checking for dead- shorts. You can connect them across the main circuit breaker (with it open) and start disconnecting items one by one. When this self resetting circuit breaker no longer trips, then you’ll know you found your dead short.

I’m a big fan of these self resetting circuit breakers...