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this look OE or 'modified'? i'm guessing that it could be a voltage regulator and is using the +12V field wire that would normally energize the regulator/field as an 'ignition' source to open the fuel solenoid. (... just a little bit more speculation for you...)

looks like a voltage regulator to me.

i'd call a diesel injection shop and ask 'em what it'd cost for them to take a look at it. they'll also likely be quite familiar with it and could give you some pointers.

i vote IP; even if you had 4 bad injectors, two functional injectors will still be firing and kicking the motor over with the amount of cranking that you've been doing. i don't think you're getting fuel out of it. i'm not sure that it's bad, but just what it sounds like from this side of the...

doesn't have one.

i just used a lug nut threaded onto the end and a pry bar. i think the flat 'wonder bar' worked the best. some popped out without much fuss while a couple were pretty stubborn.

you're looking at more than just money for the P-pump; the front cover, injector lines, and injectors will all need to be replaced/modified. better off staying w/ the VE style that you have.

no, that is not a Bosh P7100.

i'm not sure. if it was a 2nd gen i'd say you are describing the fuel bowl heater (which is worthless and useless). BUT, i don't know on a 1st gen. take some pics. i'd've thought that some good engine diagrams were easy to find for 1st gens but that's not proving to be the case... :roll:

from the pics i saw, it's the little black thing on the rear of the IP near the fuel inlet that should have 2 (or more?) wires going to it.

the shut off solenoid should be the only one in the system. on the 2nd gen dodges, the 'on' circuit holds the solenoid open but the 'start' circuit actually pulls the solenoid open. so on a 2nd gen, you'd have to bump the key to 'start' to see if the solenoid pulls open as far as it should...

if it's the one floating around on the 'net, i have it. it's been of some help, but not tremendous. experienced gear-heads have helped me 100-times over the manual. i took it on a stick to Office Depot and they printed it out and bound it for $50. wasn't really worth it. i'm trying to load...

solenoid is integrated into the rear of the IP. check here starting at post 2 to trouble-shoot the solenoid.

it should be on the same side, at or near the IP. i'm looking for pics.... do you have a pic of the IP side?

not to sound like a smart-ace, but are you sure the fuel shut-off arm or solenoid is fully in the 'open' position? i have the different style injection pump, but it can be a pain to get the system re-primed enough to fire off. this is what i do: crack filter outlet line and prime until...