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Oh, a quick comment on 24 volt electrical: I'm not doing it for NATO vehicle compatibility or mil spec originality. A single line of arithmetic says that, for a particular power need, if I double the voltage then I can halve the current. That means wires can be smaller diameter, if they aren't...

OK, the fuse panels arrived; back ordered for months. I'm thinking one fuse panel for 12V stuff, the other for 24V. You see, contrary to the crowd that migrates the electrical system to all 12V, I'm going the other way: 24V fuel pump, lights, fan, winches.

now that the truck has a roll cage Will try going with two of these 6 circuit boxes that mount to a roll cage element. One push button will be for glow plugs, the second for the starter. I discovered that when I am harnessed in, I can't reach the dash mounted controls.

fuse panel Am narrowing down the search of components for the rewire. I like the specs on the Blue Sea Systems 12 circuit panel with ground bus: It has the screw type wire attach; I like that because I can solder terminals to the wires, then screw them down, and observe the integrity of that...

Yes, I am considering integrating the custom dash at roll cage installation. They will place openings for whatever I choose, so need to design carefully to maximize the benefit for the cost.

Yes, its a great idea, I've done that before with a Bradley kit (the gull wing sports car, not the tank :0)

I am wiring the Blazer head to tail. Too many instances of a run of wire to a hand- crimped butt splice to another length of wire to a taped termination. Wires that go into a harness but don't come out. Connectors that don't connect to anything. For my application , reliability is King...