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@Guyfang I wouldn’t, but @yohanusmarcus asked this question. I know it’s past your bedtime 😂

I believe the A11 for the 006A is different from the A11 for the 004A & 005A and are not interchangeable

Now to elaborate a bit further: any AVR measures the actual AC Voltage the generator puts out on its output terminals usually across two phases The AVR then adjusts is output voltage, which is DC on the two terminals F1 and F2 and which are sometimes called F+ and F- to which exciter coil of...

Well this is where this starts for beginners: The exciter coils has a dc resistance of 3 Ohm. to understand this, the interested reader has to have a basic understanding of ohms law, series and parallel resistance circuits. Otherwise we are throwing pearls before the swine. The AVR puts out a...

That would be correct the 054 in comparison puts out a max voltage of 63VDC @ 5A continuous into the exciter but can go up to 90VDC @ 7A for up to 10 seconds to accommodate sudden load changes However the series resistance has to be a minimum of 15 Ohm for the 054 None of the aftermarket...

And here is the manual

Just another AVR Same issue as the other AVR, you need a series resistor with the exciter coil The series resistance must equal 9 Ohm or higher

The transformer can be bought via our website A11 T2 Transformer replacement The repair of the entire A11 is documented here on this SteelSoldiers thread and starts with post #56 till the end of the thread

This is the control circuit for the winterization kit and since we still have existing wiring from this kit in your generator I figured we may want to rule this kit out as failure cause. The heater unit has been removed which is indicated by the two taped wires. These wires end somewhere...

Have you tried to connect the two red wires (actually red / white) Then my next question would be, are any of these electrical parts still installed (only electrical not the fittings)

I think video can only be posted through YouTube as embedded link when you use the media button

Since @Guyfang thinks that you have a temp sensor installed for the “diesel fired heater”, which is correctly called winterization kit and we have not had a 360 degree view of your generator with all possible doors open posted as pictures, I would suggest you do that. We are hundred, if not...

There is a temperature sensor connected to the temperature gauge on the front panel. Then there is a temperature switch which has two wires.

You basically have to check this row now in @Guyfang picture from left to right The contacts on the Relay K2 and K8, oil pressure switch and coolant temperature switch as well as all the connections J/P as indicated for continuity, meaning less then 1 ohm total resistance from left to right

ok, gauge is defective. If you possess watchmaker skills then you can check the coil resistance and if you get like 500 Ohm then you can take the gauge apart and clean the two diamond bearings of the dial assembly. If you don’t have watchmaker skills or the coil is burnt out, then the gauge can...

Great, that takes the speed switch out off the picture. @Guyfang we had two 005’s on which the speed switch would work for 1 to 2 seconds and then the switch would drop out, not letting the Genset run. This test is much easier then the jumper test in the special relay box

Connect a AA or AAA to just the gauge + to + and - to - See if the needle moves

There should be a plaque also showing where the electrical boxes are located

Locate the plaques in the doors. There is one for AC and one for DC Wiring. There is also a plaque for the proper startup procedure and how to shut generator down. These plaques are your best friend. Love' em, cherish them and get to know them better then your wife before you got married.

Yes, that would be the first culprit. (Speed switch) Are you good in reading DC Wiring Diagrams? All wiring diagrams are installed in the top doors which fold out on plaques. Open all doors and familiarize yourself with your generator first