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Simple Green works pretty well on other oils, worth a shot.
Being on the east now parts are much more common so shouldn't be hard to find some spare heads to have worked over.
A second vehicle is nice to have. That's what I use a motorcycle for haha.
I'd finish the brakes first, one task at a time.
With the heads you could pick up a spare to have rebuilt at the machine shop and swap it out. Might be cheaper than the hotel and car rental. For a week.
Could be corrosion on the axle at the sealing surface.
I'd also check the weight at another scale location, just to verify. Granted the deuce will handle the weight, you are finding the weak links.
Is that camper made from a old shop trailer, like a m750?
That vent line coming out of the master cylinder cap, if it's connected, allows the air that is leaving the airpack to vacuum brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir.
There are 2 vent lines there that get tied together. One from the airpack, and a short (bout 12-18" long) T that runs...
No need to replace your airpack. Cap that vent line, and run a external reservoir to the fitting on the master cylinder cap. Unless you are planning to regularly submerge the truck there is no need to introduce an air supply to the hydraulic part of your brakes (original design).
Forgot that your truck is in Cali, 100dollarman carries the 11r20"s for a good price. http://www.100dollarman.com/tires.html
With the Hubs I'm running Primrose 327 grease, armor plate with Moly D. During my trip from Midland Texas-Hill AFB, Utah (total about 1500 miles) the hubs never got over...