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I think I know what your problem is. Due to your faulty wiring your loosing voltage to the coil. If you run a designated wire from the batteries just for the coil I think your engine dying problem will be solved. At least until you can fix your wiring harness.

Have you ever looked at the engine running at night ? Try it without a flashlight and see if you can see any stray sparks coming off the distributor cap or condensers or spark plug wires. Also did you ever take off the timing gears or advance the distributor ? If it is advanced this could cause...

Did you ever purge the cooling system ? What I would do is totally drain the system and then put in the strongest cleaner you can find and run it for a couple of days. Then make up an adapter to allow you to use a air-blow nozzle at the thermostat housing. With the thermostat removed and all...

If you keep the radiator cap loose you will loose cooling ability. Now if it is the water pump then it might allow more coolant flow through the radiator but really you should buy a new water pump. Actually these older water pumps are rebuildable by yourself if you can get the water seals...

When the pump is spinning the friction builds up heat and swells the shaft. I know sounds like the exact opposite would happen.

Is your radiator totally trashed ? Have you taken it to a good radiator repair shop and had them go over it ? I worked at a radiator shop is Phoenix AZ when I was going to trade school. That old fart could do miracles on radiators I thought were total basket cases. These radiators have good...

That's a clever idea for holding up the step !

The stumble could be the "pump" . Usually there are several holes for the linkage to adjust throw. Closer to the carb body less throw (stroke) and less fuel squirted into the throat of the carb.

I was wrong. This distributor does not have a vacuum advance system. The two lines to the distributor where for cooling the unit. It only had mechanical advance. I went and read the information in the TM9-819 and TM9-1819A .

The lines are part of the distributor advance system. Modern engines no longer need these lines, but in the "day" they where there to advance the timing in the distributor. I really must be getting old if distributor vacuum lines are no longer known. The governor for this engine comes from the...

Yep, that's how you adjust valves with the engine running. It is more accurate then adjusting them with the engine off as you never really know where that cam lobe is. The only exceptions are engines like the Cummins M11 which has marks on the cam pulley and harmonic balancer.

If you really want to do this right, your engine must be warmed up and "running" while your adjusting the valves. You will get a little oil splatter, but it cleans up ! Of course you can also adjust them with the engine off, just be sure the valves are fully closed. As was mentioned, if the...

I'm wondering if your suppose to have a voltage reducer to your distributer ? A lot of old time units had them.

What is your voltage to the coil ? Also what is your coil rated for. Is it a 24 volt coil or a 12 volt coil or even a 6 volt coil ? If you have the wrong voltage coil installed this will give you trouble. Also check your condenser in the distributor.

This conifer line does need more prep work then steel lines do, but it is worth the effort. Just think, you'll never need to replace it due to rust ever again !

Yes with the deburring. I also take a file and make sure the tube is perfectly flat then I deburr it. Also make sure the proper amount of tube is sticking out. I always look straight down on the tube to make sure it is out the correct length.

That's why I always recommend replacing all the brake lines on our trucks. Especially those running single brake systems. With the new FedHill brake lines you'll be able to pass this truck on down to your children without worrying about the brake lines rusting out.

You also usually get a price break from "Iris" when you buy four or more gallons. I run DOT 5 in all my vehicles now, except the Subaru since it has anti-lock brakes. You cannot run DOT 5 in anti-lock brakes as the pulsating causes foaming of the silicone fluid.

Iris can be a little slow, but they have the best prices so the wait is worth it. I usually order at least 4 gallons from them. That way I always have stock on hand.

I buy my nitrile gloves by the case. After all these years turning wrenches I've started getting reactions to the grease and oils.