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Use this diagram and you will be OK. I don't know how your connected to the governor. The diagram you posted in Post# 140 is correct. I was thinking about your "T" connection when I posted earlier.

Are you using a Bendix AD9 ? The way the AD9 works is to send a separate signal (pressure) to the governor to let it know to stop the compressor and allow the system to purge. There are several ways to do this, but the most simple and best for our application is to use the AD9 signal pressure...

For your application that diagram is OK. There should be one line from the governor to the air-compressors "unloader valves". The "T" connection on your system is just confusing the compressor with another pressure source.

First off the main line to the AD9 should be 1/2" not 3/8" line. It should come from your wet tank not straight from the compressor. Second the 1/4" line to the governor is pressure not vacuum. Did you use the same line (pressure hole) on the governor that should have come from the air tank to...

To take the spitter valve apart, you must first find a 1/8" or 3/16" thick piece of steel a little over 1' wide. Put this in a vise tightly. Then set the valve on it aligning it up with the 2 notches on the piston (pics 3-4 ) . Then pushing down firmly on the valve use a 3/8" socket and remove...

Well as long as they assembled it correctly it should be fine. Take the "spitter valve" apart and make sure there is a square 'O' ring on the piston.

Was it a true Bendix AD-9 ? or a copy ? The copies are coming out of China and I'm not sure of their quality.

It appears fine, but I was wondering about those lateral wear marks in the piston bore. Was this a rebuilt unit ? That grease is a special Moly grease that is impervious to water, though they really went to town on the amount used. That is another reason I am thinking this is a rebuilt unit. New...

When holding it in the first picture position, try and push on the center button on top. I should move about 1/2" in and bounce back. Make sure it moves freely not "catching" on anything. The spring pressure should be pretty hard also.

Let us know what happens.

Is the air-dryer still cycling on and off ?

Those are my "attack" cats ! Any unsuspecting individual trying to sneak into my shop will be attacked by them demanding that they be rubbed and given treats !

Your cut-out pressure should be at 120psi, so if your not reaching it then you might have another problem. Unless your governor is set to 100psi which I have seen on our trucks before. It should be set to 120psi though.

OK, I went down to the shop and got some pictures. Picture one shows the end that you will see when looking up at the air-dryer. There should be a stamp-steel housing on it with a round hole. Take the three bolts out and gently pry on the edges to remove it. In the second picture you can see the...

The air-dryer only vents when it gets it signal from the governor valve. Are you sure your not using air somewhere ? Have you watched the air gauge to be sure your not drawing down the air system ? If the compressor is totally off ( unloaders on) then you might have a problem in the air-dryer. I...

Just thinking about it, so I looked in the service manual and it should have a built-in thermostat. Just hook it to a circuit that has a fuse in it.

Exactly, and if you keep the heater unit on all the time you will burn it out very soon. The stupid things costs almost $50.00 so you don't want to have to replace that thing every year.

Remember the electrical power needs to go to some kind of thermal switch/relay. You don't want power to the heater in warm weather, only when it gets down to freezing.

I used a 10 gauge plate and mounted my air-dryer to that. Then mounted the whole thing to the cross member. I thought I had some pictures, but I cant' seem to find them. If you want I can take some better pictures of my mounting system.

Valence, there is one thing I would change. That is to replace that red hose with DOT nylon air-hose. Here's a picture of how mine is installed.