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Your right. After you get past the "zinc" levels your just looking at the weights. So a good 10/40W oil is basically the same as any other 10/40W oil as long as it is manufactured by a reputable company. There are some garbage oil companies out there you need to watch out for. Like the man said...

I still need to get my power steering project finished before I can go. I cannot handle the manual steering on that long of a trip. I have parts being machined right now. Soon I will have my gear box back and then the fun begins !

Wow ! I remember those days well. It's making me feel my inner "Timothy Leary" right now. Lets all "turn on, tune in and drop out" !

I guess I need to get out to "farm" country. Been in the city too long.

I bet if you went to a "Synthetic 50W gear oil" you would really feel some difference in shifting quality . I am surprised you where able to find some "Non-Detergent" oil. I haven't seen any in years now.

Again for the "few" failures mentioned ( I think it was two) we never found out which oil they used, only that they said it was a synthetic. I have given you actual proof ( from Shells oil site and Meritors recommended oil site and from the engineer at "Tremec" plus my own use and the use of my...

Yes that is the oil I was referring too. There is a commercial supplier a few miles from me. If you buy in bulk they will sell to you without a having a business license. You just pay the taxes.

Like anything, you must use the "proper" oil for the application. Those who said they used synthetic and then had failures were they using the correct fluid ? The one I mentioned is used by "Meritor" and other major manufactures and our transit department. It has a proven track record. Your...

Basically because it's cheaper around here !

Don't let it get to you. Take everything as it comes and you will do fine ! The most important thing to remember is "have fun" with your Deuce ! I take great joy from my truck, from driving it to working on it. In fact my wife calls it "the other woman" !

I'm running Synthetic Rotella "T" 10-40W in my engine and Shell Spirax 50w synthetic gear oil in my transmission and transfer-case. The differentials get 80-90W synthetic gear oil. I had been using 80-90W in all my gears but after talking with the transmission expert at "Tremec" I had a change...

Oh I believe you ! I have seen documentaries on this outfit that explain how they can under-sell everyone else.

You will probably only get away with this once, so make it good !

I always try to buy in bulk whenever I can or at least whenever I can afford to. :-)

Actually a little bit. My rear crankseal has started to drip a little. Welldigger it is not a myth but just like "daytonatrbo" said they fixed it with additives. IN "My Day" it was common knowledge that synthetics would cause older engines to leak like sieves. Since you where not born then you...

The "Rotella T" is what I have been using lately. Though I use the synthetic one, regular "Rotella T" is very good oil.

The bright silver metal is aluminum. There are a number of places that can come from. Like what was said earlier, just monitor the oil. Welldigger is correct about oil turning black in diesels. It will happen within hours of running. Sometimes much earlier. It's normal. If you reuse the oil...

On posts 193 and 194 I listed a whole bunch of suppliers that make a OEM oil for the transmissions and transfer-cases. My personal favorite is the Shell Spirax .

I have never used this product but as long as it has "alkyl ZDP" (zinc dithiophosphate) I would have no qualms using it. Remember you want your zinc level to be around 1600ppm .

Yes we all know the Marines on brig duty all have a great sense of humor ! With not a sadistic bone in their bodies ! :twisted: