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the only bad part about the large bores is that they go to the inside against the drum. When you mount the tire/wheel up on the truck take a crowbar and push in the very end of it using the beadlock stud for leverage to pry it out so you can get the chuck on it in the future while on the truck...
With a large bore and half inch air line you do not need an insert
They simply slip in and bolt the bands together. Be sure to use stainless steel bolts
They will stay on the wheel even without them. It actually is an advantage on tires to not have them if you drive em for alot of miles so when it does blowout it does come off the wheel easy rather than a seized up alligator. Every 1600 i have had go has blown small holes in the sidewall...
The square head lug nuts on the inside dual are called thimbles. The outside lug nuts you remove holding the outer wheel on will not work on the inner stud. Only the thimbles will. Not recommended to run thimbles as a lug nut replacement on super singles
I use the standard budd lug nuts used on m39 m809 and m939 series trucks. The m39 and 809 use shorter studs than the 939 series trucks which is why they use the necked lug nut
You will want to keep an eye on your front tires. The concrete expansion joint roads will do massive damage to them. Compared to the AT3s the XZLs take major damage on steer tires
https://gemplers.com/products/large-bore-to-standard-bore-adapter adapters
Orings for wheels
http://yourtireshopsupply.com/product/723/or220tg-standard-oring-tubeless-rims-qty2-haor220tg
It is more beneficial to stick with a large bore chuck. You can air tires up alot easier as well.
I have these large bore types. You just have to fill the tires from the inside on the rear. Not a big deal if you time them up right for easier access.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?187436-Large-Bore-Valve-Stems-for-Combat-Wheels&highlight=
Most military type valve stems will...
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