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Bring us up to date, how are you doing with your ignition switch project?

It has 2 poles, I have referenced that several times in my posts. The drawing shows the poles and what they control. Yes, it is just a simple on/off switch, it is no more complicated than that. Edit: Keep us posted with your progress on this project, I'm sure others would be interested in it.

Here's where I got that information:

I need to make a correction to my post on the load connections to the ignition switch. I tried to recall them without consulting the schematic, bad idea, the memory isn't what it used to be. One pole of the switch controls the following items: low air buzzer, front wheel drive switch, gauges...

The switch Bob showed the specs for is a single throw, double pole. I would assume both poles will handle 10 amps each. If you use the keyswitch, you most likely will still need a double pole relay. Put the current at the relay, not at the keyswitch, let the keyswitch control the relay. The...

As Drew pointed out, the in tank lift-pump pulls 6 amps, that leaves you with gauges, (small draw), and the starter solenoid. 6 amps plus the headroom required of the solenoid, you'll be right at or possibly over your 10 amp maximum. Best to use the relay and avoid headaches down the road. Nice...

They are several manufacturers of high amperage cut-off switches. I just looked at a site a few weeks ago with a selection of very nice switches, but I'll be danged if I can remember the site now. If you are still set on the keyed ignition switch, you should have that switch actuate a relay to...

A keyed battery cut-off switch in my opinion is the best option. A keyed ignition switch is still real vulnerable to jumping the terminals, and getting the vehicle started. Most people would think the batteries are dead when they turn the ignition switch on, push the start button and nothing...