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As Jim says, you are not checking it running, only cranking. No need for glow plugs or heat. Believe readings should be about 350, as I recall, (But I don't recall much according to my bride.)
Jerry :grd:
Zeus/Bill,
I tried to PM Njtoolnut and he doesn't any longer show as a member. A shame, as I had met him and he was a fine addition to the board.
I have one of his glow plug compression adapters which I will LOAN you, if you like. Emphasize LOAN, as I only have one. Let me know.
Jerry
To clarify, I've serviced the IP and the injectors. Bill has done the rest. What do the other members think about removing a shim or two from the block to get more lobe contact? This is a generator with over 3,000 hours on it. Granted, the gear tooth lash would tighten, but wouldn't the cam...
Bill, IMO, if you ran for 5 hours, your IP and injectors are obviously working, once kicked into service by the ether.
Not enough cam lobe pressure possibly. You have had your pump off several times. Are there shims at the block (look like pieces of stiff tin foil)? If so, try removing one...
"I just tested all of mine individually last weekend, pulling the blade connector off each and testing to the frame, all measured just over 6 ohms (6.1-6.4)
Ike"
You are correct Ike. Faulty memory on my part.
Jerry
Jim,
I may be recalling incorrectly but that is the measurement with plug uninstalled and on the bench, I believe it is either 0.6 or 6 ohms. Don't have the TM handy.
Jerry
Bill,
If I recall correctly, your glow plugs should test 0.6 ohms from top to tip. If they read open, they are shot. All 4 must be 24 volt units. If you have an infrared temp sensor gun, the plugs should be up around 150 degrees after a minute of preheat. If no gun, use bare hand and each...
Bill,
In my opinion, your IP and injectors are fine or, once started, you would not get the runs under load that you have gotten. Your glow plugs may not be up to par. Possible low engine compression or starter not turning fast enough. Others with more engine experience will likely have...
ZD,
Whatever the real problem, I'm VERY GLAD that when it ran, it ran better than ever before. Have been becoming a bit paranoid here wondering what I could have done wrong, particularly after checking everything twice.
Hang in there Bill. You and the wizards of smart here will figure it...
I will post this on the SS site now to help with the thread. ALSO, I DO CRACK EACH LINE AT THE INJECTOR AND BLEED THEM ONE BE ONE, 1,2,3,4...although it was a little hard to do with the IP pumping up the drain line.:roll:
Bill,
Sorry, I've been at work all day.
First, don't worry about...
Folks,
Bill and I had an e-mail discussion earlier and I mentioned to check 180 out based on what he told me.
It is beginning to sound like a cam shaft problem if timing is right. I suggested he might try removing the pump and cranking to see what is happening with the cam lobe that...
Bill,
You really need to get into the TMs. You don't pull any spring to time the IP, just a little access screw on the IP base. put the base of a 1/8" drill bit in the hole and turn the face gear of the pump until the bit drops into a key grove. Keep the bit in place...
Update, If anyone sees something I missed, please chime in.
I pulled the IP apart today. A lot of trash in it and the plunger was jammed a bit but not enough to keep it from working in my opinion. Good news is no broken parts. Have asked Bill send the injectors back to me...
Update: Bill has gone back to school full time and has opted to send the IP here. The Flea Market was open this weekend, so all I got was a call tag in my PO box on Saturday after we closed the store. Will pick up on Monday and get back to ya'll with what I find shortly thereafter (while at...
To clarify where we are:
From Bill:
Just finished pulling the pump.
Model # M50 2/4A-80A-9540A
SER BE 56948
I have the AMBAC exploded view with parts ID info. Not sure what issue I am looking for, but know that there are...
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